8) The steps at exterior stairway to the main entrance were not level. Treads were uneven and could pose a fall hazard. To prevent tripping falls, steps should not vary, one from another, by MORE THAN 3/8" and maximum riser height is 7 3/4" and level. Minimum stair width is 36" (handrail projection into stairway not to exceed 4 1/2") and minimum tread depth (nose of one stair to another) is 10". A graspable handrail that will support 200 lbs of pressure at the top, without significant movement, is required if there are four or more risers (including the landing). Graspable is defined, if flat material, as 1 1/4" to 2 3/4" wide. If the rail is round, graspable is defined as 1 1/4" to 2" in diameter. A handrail, positioned 34" to 38" above the nose of each riser or a landing, is easy to hold onto all the way up or down the stairs. If concerned, have steps/rails modified as necessary, work to be completed by general contractor. Typically, exterior walkways are the responsibility of the condo owners association. Craftsmanship to comply with prevailing safety guidelines and good building practices.

9) Common areas such as walkways, patios are typically the responsibility of a condo owners Association. At this structure, I observed significant damage to the stairway and patio area at the north side of the structure. Comments are provided to help improve occupant safety:

Cracks, or variations in height, at flat surface paving may be tripping hazards at the black patio area at the north side of the structure. At client's discretion, consult with the condo association to employ a flat work-paving contractor to repair or replace the steps and patio areas for safety purposes. Over time, most paved surfaces will settle and develop cracks. Depending on exposure and water penetration, it could become necessary to eventually replace materials.

16) The powered overhead vehicle door stops and then "auto-reverses" on impact, but it requires too much force, hard impact, before the door will reverse at the low position (when door meets the floor). The door should, upon closing on an object at mid-height or floor level, fully reverse. The door did auto reverse at mid height test, but not at the low floor test. Even if electronic sensor eyes are installed and functional, failure of auto-reverse is a safety concern -- especially so for children or pets. I recommend further evaluation: Overhead door contractor to adjust/repair/replace components, as might be necessary, and assess door/mechanism, balance and opener/operator. Three basic safety checks are commonly performed at motorized vehicle doors: (1) floor test, (2) mid-height test, (3) sensor eyes test. An article that better explains the testing procedures employed may be accessed at this link: http://goo.gl/UTsWis

In a related matter, this condo unit has two vehicle garage doors. The larger door is the one of concern in the paragraph above. The smaller garage door is manual operation. That vehicle garage door was not properly balanced. The door would not stay in place when opened half way and fell to the ground. This is a potential safety hazard since the doors can fall when open and cause injury. I recommend a qualified contractor repair as necessary. Typically, vehicle garage doors are the responsibility of condo owners associations. I recommend consulting with the association to determine responsibility.

24) Roof sheathing is lightly stained on the underside, indicative of ongoing high humidity in the attic and resultant condensation. At attics in the PNW, this may be related to ventilation deficiencies. Or a phenomenon known as "night sky radiation" can contribute to the problem. Some individuals are not concerned about the microbial staining and, according to many air quality specialists, this condition is not considered to be a significant health or allergen risk -- any transfer of attic air into living space is slight. On the other hand, sometimes occupants arrange to have sheathing and/or fungal matter cleaned/treated by a firm that specializes in that type of work. I recommend further evaluation: At client's discretion, cleanup or have the area treated. And, if the humidity problem involves ventilation irregularities, rectify any such issues. All work to be completed by qualified professionals. To obtain additional information on the topic of microbial growths, contact the N.W. Clean Air Agency in Mount Vernon (360-428-1617).

A N.W. Clean Air Agency produced online video, on the topic of microbial growths, is available at this link: http://youtu.be/6E05gEcTm7o

Follow this link to an article, published by the N.W. Clean Air Agency, on the effects of moisture, condensation and microbial growths: http://goo.gl/dRkDfH

25) Competing ventilation: This roof has gable vents, soffit vents and high vents. Best practices, based on current data, discourage mixing gable vents with other types of ventilation. Roof-attic ventilation is most effective when it is balanced, approximately 60% of airflow (intake) from low soffit vents and about 40% of airflow (exhaust) from high vents such as ridge or roof box vents. The gable openings might interfere with primary (high and low) venting. Inadequate airflow can contribute to overheating in an attic, lessen the life of roofing materials, or result in moisture condensing on the underside of roof sheathing. Discuss this venting configuration with a roofing contractor. In some cases, gable vents are blocked and overall roof-attic ventilation is actually improved upon. For a detailed description of issues that might develop as result of "competing ventilation," please visit: http://goo.gl/cwktRB

A simple calculator, designed to estimate the sufficiency of ventilation, may be accessed at this link: http://goo.gl/C0yd8G

34) Furnace service/heating contractor assessment: White condensate, a by-product of combustion, was apparent inside the furnace. The presence of condensate is indicative of a need for service and, in some instances, condensate buildup could be caused by venting issues or insufficient combustion air. Forced-air furnaces and associated components, according to manufacturers' estimates, have a life expectancy of 15-20 years. Actual lifespan may vary. Furnaces should be cleaned and serviced annually to extend appliance life and to assure ongoing safety. I recommend further evaluation and service by an HVAC contractor: Professional review to include air-handler airflow-balance, ducts, supply registers, connections, heat exchanger, combustible clearances and combustion air, vent for the length of its run, cleaning and, as applicable, gas piping, valves, carbon monoxide (CO) testing. A specialist could uncover deficiencies that were not identified at the time of a home inspection. When onsite, HVAC technician to explain routine maintenance procedures such as how to replace or clean filters. A heating contractor produced online video, descriptive of the procedures customarily included as part of HVAC service at a gas furnace, is available at this link: https://youtu.be/YNxjChOvEME

40) The pilot light in the gas fireplace/insert/stove was off. An inspector operates only normal controls and, per standards and guidelines incorporated into state law, does not ignite pilot lights or troubleshoot problems. I recommend testing the appliance with further evaluation and service by a heating contractor: Professional review to include burner, combustion chamber, air openings, gas valve, igniter and pilot, venting and combustible clearances for the length of the run, remove and clean glass and inside unit, inspect gasket, and, as applicable, carbon monoxide (CO) testing, operation of fan-blower, thermostat, etc. A gas fireplace/stove that serves as a primary heat source should be professionally serviced annually. If it is used only on an occasional basis, the appliance requires service, at a minimum, every three years. Any heat circulating fans or blowers (usually thermostatically controlled devices) are excluded. I do not disassemble/lift off fronts of fireplaces, if putting parts back together again could be difficult to do. A contractor produced online video, descriptive of general maintenance, cleaning procedures and glass removal, is available at this link: https://youtu.be/br6Hmg95RAs

Here's a link to a consumer bulletin, issued by the nearby B.C. Safety Authority, that emphasizes the importance of regularly scheduling safety checkups at all gas heating appliances and fireplaces: http://goo.gl/pN1WT2

Ceramic glass, at the front of gas fireplaces, inserts and stoves, should be cleaned twice per year or as specified by manufacturer. Employ specialized cleansers formulated for the purpose, do not use ammonia-based products that could permanently etch glass. If periodic maintenance has been neglected in the past, the glass front may have become perpetually cloudy.

42) The hot water temperature at fixtures reads as a minimum of 129 degrees Fahrenheit. The risk of scalding increases when temperature is set higher than 120°F I recommend adjusting/limiting the water temperature at fixtures to 120°F. Water temperature is regulated by thermostatic controls at/inside water heaters. Temperature may vary throughout the day, depending on when the appliance last heated water. Even though temperature at fixtures should be limited to 120°F, maintaining a higher tank temperature reduces the probability of bacterial growth inside the water heater. Therefore, a preferred means of lowering temperature involves installing a thermal mixing valve: Water at fixtures is restricted to 120°F, yet water in the tank will maintain a temperature of 130-140°F At client’s discretion, qualified party to adjust thermostat(s) or have a plumber install thermal mixing valve. To obtain more information on hot water safety, please visit: http://goo.gl/IS7knJ

An article, descriptive of thermal mixing valves, is available at this link: http://goo.gl/sqzs3t

44) Rubber water supply hoses, as is often the case, are installed at the washing machine. Rubber hoses are prone to eventual deterioration and leaks. I recommend replacing rubber supply hoses with long-lasting stainless steel braided washing machine hoses. Alternatively, consider an upgrade to "FloodSafe" auto-shutoff connectors: designed to stop the flow of water if leakage occurs. A wide assortment of hoses are available at hardware and home stores. A manufacturer produced online video that explains the operation of FloodSafe specialty hoses is available at this link: http://youtu.be/HIIjGvR-2xI

51) Underfloor insulation: Insulation was missing in the crawl space. I recommend installing batt insulation. As a guideline, based on today's standards, underfloor insulation at floors above unheated space is rated at R-30 or better. I recommend further review and appropriate repairs: Install/fit, or custom fit, insulation. Insulation should be tight to the underside of the floor above and the vapor barrier backing paper, on most modern batt insulation, is designed to face the warm side. Upside down insulation can result in moisture retention. All work to be completed by qualified professional.

57) Tub(s)/shower(s) inspection: The gap, behind the tub spouts, could allow moisture entry into the wall. If a spout gap is small enough, caulking can be applied. A more permanent solution is to put in place an escutcheon trim plate that can be installed at the back of the spout. I recommend further assessment, and appropriate repairs, with work to be completed by a qualified plumber.

Inspection procedure: Inspector looks for signs of past, or possibly present, leaks or seepage. A slow, intermittent or concealed leak might not be readily apparent at the time of inspection. Minor deficiencies at fixtures can result in interior damage. Caulk and/or grout around fixtures requires periodic maintenance and eventual replacement.

58) Some interior doors don't latch and or binds in the jamb. Adjust/repair doors, as might be necessary onsite, so they smoothly open and close, adjusting the latching mechanism (bolt/plate) so the doors reliably latches. All work to be completed by qualified general contractor or door installation/repair contractor.