This report published on Wednesday, October 4, 2023 9:07:03 PM EDT
Thank you for using Allied Home Inspections LLC for your inspection needs. I appreciate your business.
The following written report is prepared for the sole, confidential and exclusive use of the client(s) named above. It is designed to highlight systems and components observed on the day of the inspection that are significantly deficient or are near the end of their service lives. The report is intended as a general guide to help you evaluate the home. Read your entire Home Inspection Report before purchasing the property, paying close attention to all items noted on the report and to any exclusions and limitations listed. Any items noted that require further evaluation, any items not accessible or able to be located during the inspection or any areas noted as visually limited or inaccessible should be investigated or evaluated before you purchase the home. I do not give estimates for repair work - the only valid estimate for any work to be done should be in written form and submitted by a licensed and qualified contractor who is actually going to perform the work. You should obtain written estimates from licensed and qualified contractors for any repairs needed prior to the expiration of the inspection contingency period, hidden damage may exist. I recommend that any needed repairs always be made by a licensed, qualified contractor.
Your Home Inspection Report represents my good-faith opinions on the subjects listed within on the day of the inspection, and an earnest effort was made on your behalf to discover all visible defects - but no guarantee or warranty is either expressed or implied. Hidden or concealed defects are not included in this report. This report is not an insurance policy. Please be sure to read the entire report thoroughly and call promptly with any questions or concerns. This report shall supersede any written or verbal communication and comments made prior to providing the written report.
Best Wishes,
Tom Schlotter President Allied Home Inspections, LLC
How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas. Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type. Items of concern follow descriptive information.
Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
Safety
Poses a risk of injury or death. Have the appropriate contractor evaluate and correct the defect at once.
Repair / Replace
Item or component broken or not functioning as intended, or is in need of immediate attention to prevent further damage / deterioration.. Need further inspection by a specialist to determine if repair is possible or replacement is needed.
Upgrade / Repair / Replace
Recommend improvement, upgrading, repairing, or replacing.
Maintain
Recommend maintenance / repair, or will need ongoing maintenance / repair.
Evaluate
Recommend evaluation by a specialist before purchasing the home. Client to assess information and determine personal level of concern. Make any repairs or replacements as suggested or needed.
Monitor
Possible defect - check this at least monthly for any change or deterioration in condition. Have appropriate contractor repair or replace as needed.
Comment
For your information
Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.Contact your inspector If there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at https://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp
Present during the inspection: Buyer(s), Realtor(s)
Was building occupied at the time of inspection: Yes
Past weather: Rain
Weather conditions at start of inspection: Clear
Overnight temperature prior to inspection (approximate): In the 50's
Approximate temperature at start of inspection: In the 70's
Ground condition: Damp
Main entrance to home faces: East
Real estate listing on internet and/or disclosure documents state build date or age of the home as: 1985, about 30 years old
Square footage, as stated by Realtor, buyer, or real estate listing (not confirmed by home inspector): 1170
Type of building, as reported by Realtor and/or client: Condo
General construction material: Wood
1) Before purchasing a condo it is always a good idea to have your attorney find out A) what components you pay to fix and what the association pays to fix and B) if there are any assessments planned that will cost you money.
2) Copper water supply pipes in buildings built prior to 1986 may be joined with solder that contains lead. Lead is a known health hazard, especially for children. Laws were passed in 1985 prohibiting the use of lead in solder, but prior to that solder normally contained about 50 percent lead. The client should be aware of this, especially if children will be living in this structure. Evaluating for the presence of lead in this structure is not included in this inspection. The client should consider having a qualified lab test the water in the house for lead, and if necessary take steps to reduce or remove lead from the water supply. Go to http://www.epa.gov/safewater/lead/index.html for more info.
Could not test for radon gas - home did not not meet EPA testing guidelines on the day of inspection (windows were open, home was aired-out). Test results would not have been valid or accurate.
Radon is an odorless radioactive gas listed by the EPA as being the second leading cause of lung cancer in the U.S. EPA recommends that you conduct a radon test anytime you buy a home, and I highly recommend you have a radon in air test done. Radon gas may or may not exist in this home. Go to www.epa.gov/radon for more details.
Drainage on lot appears to be: Fair, some water drains away and some will drain toward the structure. Possibility of water penetration to the home exists. Correct the grading as needed.
Driveway material: Asphalt
Trees, shrubs and plantings need to be cut back or pruned from structure: Shrubs growing too close to home need to be cut back
Foundation materials: Poured in place concrete
Amount of foundation wall exposed and able to be inspected: Only a small amount of the foundation was visible and able to be inspected.
Siding / wall covering: Wood
Trim materials (includes eaves, soffits, fascias, window and door trim): Wood
Exterior door(s) appear to be made of: Metal, fiberglass, or other synthetic material
Storm doors noted on all exterior doors?: Yes
Stairs and guard rails at exterior in good condition: Appears serviceable
Front stoop or porch made of: Concrete
Sidewalk and walkway material: Asphalt
Deck is made of: Wood
Deck and rails, surface condition: Needs maintenance - recommend cleaning, use a water sealant, stain, or paint after cleansing. Will need periodic maintenance every year or so.
Joist hangars noted under deck / porch: None noted, need to add for safety.
Flashing seen between deck and/or porch and house: No, may not exist. Ledger board may be subject to rot. Add flashing as needed.
Support columns under deck made of: Wood
Patio made of: None noted
Window wells made of: Concrete
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Plants or shrubs block areas of the foundation / siding from view, Carpeting or other covering obscures deck, porch, or patio
3) No joist hangars noted under deck / porch, should be added. Joist hangers are metal fasteners used to support the joist under the deck where it connects with the beam or perimeter joist. They serve to insure that the weight of the joist bears properly on the beam. A joist hanger is a piece of sheet metal that is flat on the bottom, to cradle the joist, and twisted on each of its sides so it also sits flat against the beam. The hanger is then nailed to the beam. Toe nailing is a common way of connecting a joist to a beam but not as sturdy. When the joist is toe-nailed, the nail is driven at about a 45-degree angle through the side of the joist end, into the beam. This can be unreliable if done incorrectly because the structural load will not bear properly on the nail, leading to eventual separation of the junction.
Boards on the deck show rot, cracks, checking, or other damage and need replacement.
Wood trim at deck loose, needs repair.
One or more deck or porch joists were not positively secured to the support beam(s) below. Decks and porches are subject to movement under live loads and require a positive connection (not "toenailing" with nails) between their joists and beams. Usually metal post-to-beam attachments are tacked on for added strength.
One or more deck or porch beams were not positively secured to the support posts below. Decks and porches are subject to movement under live loads and require a positive connection (not "toenailing" with nails) between their support posts and beams. Recommend that a qualified contractor repair per standard building practices. Usually metal post-to-beam attachments are installed for added strength.
Consider upgrading your deck and/or porch support posts to a larger size. The American Wood Council recommends using 6x6 posts for decks because they are more resistant to bowing. These posts appear to be smaller than 6x6. Replace as needed.
Photo 3-1 Photo 3-2
Photo 3-3 Photo 3-4
4) Noted cracks and deterioration of the driveway, repair as needed by driveway contractor.
Photo 4-1
5) Rails at exterior stairs rusty. Contact appropriate contractor for repair or correction.
Photo 5-1
6) Some cracks and deterioration present in foundation. These don't appear to be a structural concern but recommend sealing them to prevent water and insect infiltration. Monitor for any further deterioration / movement and correct as needed.
7) Found sections of exterior with peeling paint. Should be scraped / sanded and repainted to avoid water penetration.
Vegetation (trees, shrubs and/or vines) are too close to or are in contact with building exterior. Recommend pruning or removing vegetation as necessary so there's at least a one foot gap between all vegetation and the building exterior. This gap should exist to allow exterior building materials to dry quickly after it rains, and to eliminate pathways to the structure for wood destroying insects. If present tree limbs should be pruned so that they do not overhang or touch the house. Falling limbs will damage the roof while falling leaves clog the gutters and may cause water to fall close to the foundation and seep into the basement area.
Mold / mildew / dirt noted on exterior siding that needs cleaning.
Photo 7-1
8) The finish on the deck and / or railings is worn or deteriorated. Recommend cleaning and repainting / re-staining deck.
Photo 8-1
9) Noted tears or rips in window and/or door screens that should be repaired.
10) The soil or grading appears to be pitched toward the house or is level in one or more locations. This may lead to water in the basement, crawlspace, and/or foundation areas. Soil should always be pitched AWAY from house to prevent water penetration. Monitor any areas of the basement where the soil is level or pitched against house for possible water penetration. Optimally slope should fall away from all sides of the foundation at a minimum rate of 1/2 inch per foot, extending at least 10 feet away from the building. Make sure gutters are clean and working properly, extensions should be in place on downspouts so water drains away from the house foundation. Have landscape contractor change the pitch at areas so water flows away from the structure as needed.
Roof inspection method: Viewed from ground using binoculars
Roof type(s): Gable
Estimated number of roofing layers: Unknown, not observed
Roof covering: Asphalt shingles
Estimated stage of life for roof: Age appears to be newer to mid-life
General condition of roof: Good, appears serviceable
Roof conditions noted: Roof appears clean, Roofing appears flat and smooth, Fresh color noted (good, not yet faded by age), Square corners noted on roofing shingles (good, not yet eroded or worn)
Roof ventilation seen from exterior: Ridge Vent
Roof penetrations noted and flashings: Plumbing vent pipes
Vent pipe material: Plastic
Gutter & downspout material: Aluminum
Gutters / downspouts discharge to: Pipe buried in ground, could not determine where pipe exits
Number of chimneys: 1
Chimney(s) made of: Metal in a chase
Could the inside of the chimney be viewed from the roof or exterior: No, inside of chimney could not be observed due to chimney cap / spark arrestor, No, inside of chimney could not be observed due to height
Flue liner(s) noted at top of chimney: Yes
Spark arrestor / rain cap observed on top of chimney: Yes
Chimney location(s): Interior of structure
Chimney flashing: Flashing if present is not visible (covering by patching)
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Sections of the roof could not be seen or examined by the inspector, have a roofer or contractor evaluate these areas, Drip edge or flashing at roof edge prevents inspector from estimating the number of layers on the roof
11) Ventilation for the roof does not appear adequate and should be increased - this will extend the life of the roof. Add soffit, ridge, and gable vents as needed.
Amperage / apparent service cable size (amps): Unknown. No marked main switch visible to check service rating. Somewhat common for condos (most of the units had a 150AMP breaker, could be 150AMP)
Type of electrical service drop: Enclosed in conduit, could not see or measure
Primary service type (overhead or underground): Underground (lateral)
Service drop or lateral: Appears serviceable
Service voltage (volts): 120-240
Number of service wires visible: 3
Service conductor material: Aluminum
Location of electrical meter: Front exterior
Meter Ratings: 240 Volts, 200 Class, 3 Wire
Location of electrical main panel: Hallway
Location of main disconnect(s): Breaker(s) at or near electrical meter
Main disconnect rating: Main cut-off switch / fuse not labeled, disconnect rating / amperage unknown
Primary service overload protection type: Circuit breakers
Main electrical panel rating: 200 Amps
Branch circuit wiring type: Type of wiring not seen or visible
Branch wiring observed in main panel: Copper
Probable grounding for the main electrical panel observed: Unknown, could not locate. This is common in condos, ground could be located in an electrical closet or common area and not be visible. Ask the association for its location, add if needed.
Any "double-taps" noted on the circuit breakers or bus bar in the main electrical panel: No, appears serviceable
Minimum 30AMP circuit noted for electric dryer: Yes, appears serviceable
Minimum 40AMP circuit noted for electric stove / range: Yes, appears serviceable
Minimum 30AMP circuit noted for electric water heater: Yes, appears serviceable
Number of 110 / 120v 15AMP breakers noted in main panel: 5
Number of 220 / 240v 30AMP breakers noted in main panel: 3
Number of 220 / 240v 40AMP breakers noted in main panel: 1
Number of 220 / 240v 60AMP breakers noted in main panel: 1
12) Noted one or more electric outlets with an open ground at the dining room, needs repair by a licensed electrician for safety. http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/insp.htm for more info.
13) Exposed or loose electrical wire(s) noted at kitchen, needs to be corrected for safety. Recommend having a licensed electrician evaluate and correct as needed.
Photo 13-1 Photo 13-2
14) Noted loose outlets at first floor bathroom needs to be corrected for safety.
15) Cover plate for light switch in second floor hall bath does not completely cover the wires, correct for safety.
Photo 15-1
16) Breakers in each electrical panel are specific to the manufacturer - in most cases they cannot be interchanged between manufacturers, even if they appear to fit correctly. Noted a mix of circuit breakers made by different companies inside the main panel. Have electrician replace breakers as needed.
Photo 16-1
17) The electrical meter and main disconnect switch for this unit are not labeled or marked, no way to ascertain what the amperage is. Recommend asking the condo association, or you can have an electrician evaluate as needed.
Since the switches are unmarked the amperage of the unit is unknown. My best guess is 150AMPS but this should be verified by the association or an electrician.
No ground wire could be located leading from the electrical panel to a water main or exterior ground rod. This is common in condo units, the ground may be located in a common area or utility closet in another location. Ask the condo association or an electrician to ascertain its location and confirm that the ground is installed and connected properly.
Water supply system has not been inspected but the type of water service is stated by Realtor / real estate listing / owner / client to be: Public ('city water"), but was not verified. This information is considered reliable, however, client should verify all information provided by third parties
Type of waste disposal system has not been inspected but is reported by Realtor / real estate listing / seller / client to be: Public ("city sewer"), but was not verified. This information is considered reliable, however, client should verify all information provided by third parties
Location of water main entry into home: Unknown, not visible. Contact condo association to ascertain location.
Water entry pipes appear to be made of: Unknown, not seen or covered by insulating material
Location of water shut-off valve (main): Not found - contact water company (or well contractor if on a well system) for further evaluation.
Water treatment equipment noted (not tested or evaluated): None noted at the time of inspection
Interior water supply pipes made of: Copper
Tested functional flow of water by opening multiple fixtures and flushing toilet to stress the system. Noted the following: No decrease in flow
Ran water at kitchen sink: No leaks noted
Kitchen sink made of: Stainless steel
Garbage disposal noted at sink: No
Waste ejectors noted?: No
Waste pipe material: Not visible
Waste pipe location: Not Visible
Location of laundry area: In or near bedroom
Turned washer on: Washer advanced through cycles, heard water come in, splash, spin and pump out
Washer discharges to: Drain pipe
Age of washer appears to be: Mid-life
Tested dryer: Heard dryer spin and felt it warm up
Dryer powered by: Electric
Dryer vented to: Unknown, could not see
Dryer duct material made of: Unknown, not visible or noted. Make sure dryer has a metal exhaust duct for safety.
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Finished areas block full observation of plumbing, could not fully inspect
19) Recommend you replace the rubber water supply hoses at the washer with steel braided hoses. Rubber hoses will deteriorate over time and burst under pressure, causing flooding.
Catch pan under washer cracked, should be replaced.
Photo 19-1
20) Could not find water meter, main water shut-off valve. Should be located. Contact water company for further information.
21) Could not determine if the dryer vent actually goes to the exterior. It should be investigated, if not vented to the exterior it should be corrected.
Noted vents at front exterior wall, could be for dryer.
Heat pump air handler manufacturer and build date (if listed): Carrier 2006
Location for heat pump handler: Closet
Estimated stage of life: Mid-life
Heat pump compressor manufacturer and build date (if listed): Carrier 2006
Location heat pump compressor: Exterior
Distribution system: Ducts
Location of heating air filter, if noted: At furnace / air handler
Heating filter type and condition (clean or replace at least twice a year): Disposable
Humidifier noted on system?: No
Number of zones noted: One
Location of thermostats: 1st floor
Boiler / furnace / air handler came on when thermostat was turned on: Yes
Heat felt in all rooms that have a heat source?: Yes
Heat in use at start of the inspection: No
Central Air Conditioning type: Built into heat pump
Tested central cooling system: Turned system on, interior of house received cooling
When air conditioning system was turned on the house seemed to cool: Quickly
Location of air filter for cooling system (if noted): (Same filter as the heating system)
Located condensate line from cooling system: Yes
Individual room air conditioning units observed: No
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist:
22) The electrical disconnect at the exterior cooling compressor at the front exterior is missing a safety plate or a lock - electrical wires are exposed. Have cooling contractor add for safety.
Photo 22-1
23) The flexible plenum on top of the air handler in the closet is ripped and needs repair.
Photo 23-1
24) Air filter located at the air handler in the closet is dirty, needs to be replaced or cleaned so the system can operate properly.
25) Heat pump noted - heat pumps provide efficient heating in areas where exterior temperatures are moderate. In this part of the country a heat pump will cost more to operate than a gas or oil furnace.
Hearth 16" wide or greater?: Yes, appears serviceable
Attempted to open damper: Opened and closed, appeared to operate correctly
Could inside of chimney / fireplace be seen and evaluated: No, parts of the fireplace / chimney not visible and not able to be fully inspected. Contact chimney contractor for cleaning / evaluation.
Looking past the damper opening was a flue liner visible: Yes
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected as needed, hidden damage may exist: Inside of chimney not visible to inspector
26) Interior of chimneys and flues cannot be seen by the inspector. I always recommend that all fuel burning apparatus (fireplaces, wood stoves, furnaces, boilers) have their chimneys evaluated and cleaned by a qualified chimney service contractor. You should also do this on an annual basis. Any damage, deterioration, or build-up of soot or creosote could cause flues and chimneys not to vent properly or become a possible fire hazard.
Bathroom ventilation noted: Fan that vents to unknown location, cannot determine termination, needs to vent to the exterior. Correct as needed.
Received hot and cold water at sink, shower or bath: Yes
Flushed toilet(s): Working
Number of sinks: One
Sinks attached securely: Yes
Floor: Vinyl
Ground fault interrupt circuit(s) noted: Yes, tested and working at time of inspection
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Excessive stored items under sink prevents observation
27) Sink drains slowly, needs correction.
28) Noted water stains or rust stains at the toilet base. No leaking during the inspection, but it may have leaked at some time. Monitor for any leaks, repair as needed.
Photo 28-1
29) After examination it could not be determined if the bathroom vent exhausts to the exterior. The moist air from the bathroom should always discharge to the exterior of the home and not into the attic, roof soffits, interior rooms, etc. Correct as needed.
Bathroom ventilation noted: Fan appears to vent to interior, needs to be corrected to vent to the exterior
Received hot and cold water at sink, shower or bath: Yes
Flushed toilet(s): Working
Number of sinks: One
Floor: Tile
Ground fault interrupt circuit(s) noted: Yes, tested and working at time of inspection
30) A cross-connection is present when there is a possibility that the potable drinking water could mix with the non-potable wastewater. The most common occurrence is when the pressure in the supply system changes or is turned off and dirty water is drawn into the supply system. Some examples: a garden hose resting on the ground while connected to a spigot, a faucet outlet or spout below the rim or upper-most level of a sink or tub, when a sink or bathtub with a sprayer or shower head has a hose that falls below the rim and could allow contaminated water to be drawn into the supply piping, or a toilet where the water supply line becomes detached and falls below the water level or drain overflow tube. The water in the tank may be drawn into the supply line if the pressure goes off.
31) Bathroom fan vents to the interior - needs to be corrected so all the moist air exits the home on the exterior. Moist air in the home encourages mold growth and can deteriorate building materials. Call plumber or roofer to add ductwork so the fan blows the air outside.
The plumbing supply pipe(s) in the tub/shower area are not firmly attached behind the wall and need correction.
Towel bar(s) loose, needs tightening.
Sink stopper inoperable, missing or broken. Need to add or repair so it opens and closes correctly.
Sink drains slowly, needs correction.
32) Peeling paint and/or wallpaper noted in the bathroom, recommend repair. This is also a sign of excessive moisture here - make sure a vent fan is installed, working properly, and turned on when the bathroom is in use,
Photo 32-1
33) When you move in and it is empty check to make sure that the cabinet over the toilet is properly secured to the wall.
Bathroom ventilation noted: Fan appears to vent to interior, needs to be corrected to vent to the exterior
Received hot and cold water at sink, shower or bath: Yes
Flushed toilet(s): Working
Number of sinks: One
Sinks attached securely: No
Shower / tub surround made of: Plastic / Fiberglass
Floor: Tile
Ground fault interrupt circuit(s) noted: Yes, tested and working at time of inspection
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Excessive stored items under sink prevents observation
34) A cross-connection is present when there is a possibility that the potable drinking water could mix with the non-potable wastewater. The most common occurrence is when the pressure in the supply system changes or is turned off and dirty water is drawn into the supply system. Some examples: a garden hose resting on the ground while connected to a spigot, a faucet outlet or spout below the rim or upper-most level of a sink or tub, when a sink or bathtub with a sprayer or shower head has a hose that falls below the rim and could allow contaminated water to be drawn into the supply piping, or a toilet where the water supply line becomes detached and falls below the water level or drain overflow tube. The water in the tank may be drawn into the supply line if the pressure goes off.
35) Bathroom fan vents to the interior - needs to be corrected so all the moist air exits the home on the exterior. Moist air in the home encourages mold growth and can deteriorate building materials. Call plumber or roofer to add ductwork so the fan blows the air outside.
Bathroom sink not secure, needs to be fastened.
Tub stopper missing or not working correctly, needs correction.
The plumbing supply pipe(s) in the tub/shower area are not firmly attached behind the wall and need correction.
36) Damaged or missing grout noted between floor tiles. Have tile contractor evaluate the tiles, repair as needed.
Photo 36-1
37) Cabinet trim spacer at sink vanity loose, repair as needed.
Operated range: All burners turned on and gave heat
Oven is: Part of the stove / range unit
Range hood vents: Back into the interior
Operated range hood / vent: Appears to be working
Estimated age of dishwasher: Mid-life
Operated dishwasher: Heard water come in, splash, pump out, appears to be working
Age of built-in microwave: Newer to mid-life
Operated Microwave: Heated up, appears to be working
Ground Fault Interrupt outlet installed near sink(s) in kitchen: Yes
Kitchen counters appear to be made of: Granite
Kitchen floor appears to be made of: Wood or wood laminate
General condition of the interior rooms: Good - floors ceilings and walls mostly in good condition. There may be some small cracks, holes or nail pops that are cosmetic and need repair.
Signs of roof or plumbing leaks in the interior: Water stains or other water-damaged material noted - need to repair.
Interior walls appear to be made of: Sheetrock
Wall insulation: Unknown, not seen. Add more as needed.
Interior floors consist of: Wood or wood laminate, Wall to wall carpet, Rugs
When floors were bounced on noticed: A normal amount of bounce
Door types: Hollow Core
Types of windows: Sliding, Vinyl
Window glazing: Windows appear to be insulated glass
Random tested a sampling of windows and found: Windows open and close under normal pressure
Skylights: None noted
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Clutter, furniture or stored items prevented access or observation of areas
39) Recommend installing more carbon monoxide detectors so there is a working unit on each level of the home.
Noted carbon monoxide detector(s) of the plug-in variety. Unit(s) may or may not be present after the owner moves out. Recommend you check upon moving in, make sure you have at least (1) working carbon monoxide detector on each living level of the house for safety (check with the manufacturers, they are usually not recommended for basements and attics).
40) Hand rail or guard rail at stairs not returned to the wall, has openings that are too wide , needs correction for safety. Contact carpenter or appropriate contractor for repair.
41) Bubbling paint visible at kitchen ceiling. Ceiling material is wet, apparently from an active leak in plumbing above. Recommend repairing plumbing leak. Recommend removing wet wallboard or plaster and replacing with new after area has dried thoroughly.
Tested area with moisture meter (see picture), it was damp at the time of inspection.
Photo 41-1
42) No air gap noted at dishwasher drain. The drain hose should be higher than the drain to prevent possible siphoning of dirty water from the sink trap back into the dishwasher. Needs correction.
*Please Note - some newer models of dishwashers are now being manufactured with an air gap built into the drain system. Recommend you check with the manufacturer first before making any repairs.
43) Appears that the wrong screws were used to fasten cabinets to the wall. Recommend using proper fasteners here for safety (not sheet rock screws, which can break under the weight of a loaded cabinet)
44) Noted some lights that did not light when the switch was flipped or some switches where the use could not be ascertained. This is common, the switch may actually control an outlet or some other device not seen by the inspector. Bulbs may be burnt-out. If not, it may need repair.
45) Interior ceilings, walls, trim, etc. will need some cosmetic work (cracks, nail pops, paint, peeling wallpaper, small holes, missing trim, or the like).
Interiors generally need painting when you move in. Once the paintings or pictures are removed from walls you'll see outlines.
46) Carpets may need cleaning or replacing, several cats noted in the home.
Inspection method: Partially traversed, some access blocked
Attic access: Pull down stairs
Attic flooring: Some flooring, mostly unfloored
Roof framing: Trusses
Roof decking: Plywood
Evidence of rafter spreading noted on roof rafters: No, appears serviceable
Were plumbing vent pipes observed in the attic extending through the roof: Yes
Water stains observed in attic: No
Ventilation noted from inside attic: Ridge Vent
Whole house fan noted: No
Attic fan noted: No
Insulation material: Fiberglass roll or batt
Insulation location(s): Floor
Vapor barrier or retarder noted: Not observed, add as needed
Approximate insulation R value (will probably vary in areas): Varies from area to area, not uniformly installed
Was enough insulation noted in the attic: Unsure, contact insulation contractor for further evaluation
Inspection was limited by (but not restricted to) the following conditions. Have areas further evaluated or inspected, hidden damage may exist: Noted limited access to attic, areas not observed, Insulation obscures areas from observation, Clutter and/or excessive stored items obscures areas from observation, Trusses noted that prevent full access and observation
47) Recommend you add more ventilation in the attic. This will a) make the house cooler in summer, b) increase the lifespan of the roof covering, and c) reduce the possibility of ice dams on the roof in the winter. Go to http://www.onthehouse.com/wp/20030929 for more info. Contact roofing contractor for advice, add attic fan, soffit, gable, and / or ridge vent(s) as needed.
48) Exhaust ducts for the two second floor bathrooms not found exiting the attic space, terminates in the attic. Should be corrected so the duct(s) terminate completely to the exterior of the home. Warm, moist air from bathroom, dryers, kitchens, etc. discharging into attic can encourage wood rot, mold growth, and ice dams on the roof in winter. Recommend having a contractor install vent cap(s) designed for this duct that exits to the exterior, and securely attaching the duct to the cap so 100% of the exhaust fan air exits the attic. http://www.askthebuilder.com/546_Bathroom_Fan_Ventilation.shtml.
One or more exhaust ducts (e.g. bathroom fan, clothes dryer) in the attic were not insulated. This can result in moisture forming inside the duct or "sweating" on the outside of the duct depending on the surrounding air temperature and the exhaust air temperature. Recommend that a qualified person install insulation on exhaust ducts per standard building practices (typically R-4 rating), or replace uninsulated ducts with insulated ducts.
Photo 48-1 Photo 48-2
49) Areas of attic and the attic hatch could use more insulation.
Attic hatch does not shut tight, needs adjustment.
Photo 49-1
This inspection report is intended as a general guide to help you make an evaluation as to the overall condition of the home. It is not intended to place a value on the home nor make any representation as to the advisability of purchase. It is not a guarantee or warranty. It is not an insurance policy.
The report reflects the opinion of the inspector(s), based upon visual impressions of conditions that existed at the time of inspection. The inspection is not intended to be technically exhaustive or to imply that every component in the home was inspected. No disassembly of equipment, opening of walls, moving of furniture or stored items was performed or is compulsory by state requirements. Any and all components which were concealed or obscured from observation at the time of inspection (including those concealed by clutter and stored items) are necessarily excluded from the report. I recommend that any systems or components be made accessible and inspected by a professional prior to expiration of the inspection contingency period - hidden damage may exist. Unless noted otherwise the house exterior was inspected from the ground. Only a representative sampling of parts and components (windows, electrical outlets, roof shingles, exterior wall trim and cladding, etc.) were examined and are within the scope of this inspection. Unless noted otherwise roofs and roofing materials may be inspected from the ground with binoculars, from the roof edge when possible, or from windows overlooking the roof.
Environmental hazards are not within the scope of the inspection and are excluded from the report. Hazards not covered or within the scope of the inspection include but are not limited to radon gas, uranium, pesticides, VOC's, arsenic, carbon monoxide, lead and lead paint, buried storage tanks, asbestos, vermiculite, chinese (sulfur) drywall, urea formaldehyde, and mold. Also excluded from the report are heating system heat exchangers, heat-recovery and energy recovery ventilators, solar heating systems, heating / cooling adequacy or distribution balance, pools, hot tubs, spas, fountains, high-tension towers and power lines, exterior lighting, water wells (including yield and recovery), zoning ordinances, intercoms, playground equipment, sports courts, elevators, outbuildings (gazebos, barns, sheds, storage buildings, etc.), ponds, wetlands, septic tanks and sewage systems, water treatment equipment, security systems, sprinkler systems (both fire and lawn), bridges (over culverts, streams, ponds, etc.), generators, docks and sea walls, boathouses, greenhouses, invisible fencing, low voltage lighting systems, wine cellar fans and associated apparatus, and central vacuum systems. Condo common areas are excluded. This is not an inspection for insects (including wood destroying), rodents birds, or other infestations. Damage may exist to the home inside of walls and finished areas that was inaccessible to the inspector and not visible at time of inspection. Re-inspection or additional testing is not included and will incur an additional fee if needed. No warranty or guaranty of the home or components is implied by Allied Home Inspections LLC. Any comments made regarding excluded components are as courtesy only and should be evaluated by a qualified professional.
This inspection does not include testing or evaluation of any water well systems. Any above-ground and observable well components that may need repair will be remarked upon in this section as a courtesy. Evaluation by a licensed well contractor is always advised. Water testing is advised before purchasing a home and on a yearly basis.
This inspection report is not a compliance inspection for any government codes or regulations, nor as a property or land survey. It does not include a search for proper construction permits, certificates of occupancy, or proof of having passed a final inspection from local authorities. The types of water supply (public supply or private well) and waste disposal (public sewer or private septic system) cannot be accurately determined by a home inspection and were not part of your home examination. I recommend you check with your local Town Hall or other source of building records / permits to verify your type of system before purchase.
Allied Home Inspections LLC 2014 CT License #HOI445 NY License #16000012630
