1) This is a Gunite pool measuring 22’ x 44’. It features built-in stairs, a Baja shelf, a mid pool set of stairs with a sitting shelf, a swim out with a sitting shelf, a spa, and three waterfalls. For chemical dosing purposes the approximate capacity is 35,000 gallons.

2) There are two separate areas with pool steps. Each set of steps did not have a handrail. In addition, the steps did not have edge markings on the top surface of the steps. These are both safety concerns. A qualified person should evaluate and install a handrail and edge markings.

3) The alarm for the doors between the house and the pool was missing. While regulations vary between municipalities, all doors which give access to a swimming pool should be equipped with an audible alarm that should:

• Sound for 30 seconds or more when the door and/or screen are opened
• Sound within seven seconds after the door is opened
• Be loud; at least 85 dBA (decibels) at 10 feet away
• Be distinct from other sounds in the house
• Have a manual switch to disable it temporarily where the switch is located at least 54 inches above the door's threshold
• Have an automatic reset feature

A qualified person should evaluate and repair as necessary. For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?POOLBARR
https://www.reporthost.com/?POOLSAFETY

4) No safety float line was installed where the bottom slope begins to deepen which is a safety hazard. Standards require that one be installed one to two feet on the shallow side of this transition when the transition is located in water deeper than four and a half feet deep. We recommend installing a safety float line.

For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?POOLSAFETY

5) FENCES and PERIMETER SAFETY

The perimeter fencing system has some issues as outlined in the photos below. Please note, Blue Sky Pool Inspections are not fencing specialists. We suggest you bring in a competent fencing company to analyze your perimeter fencing and bring it up to code.

The following is FYI:

A proper pool yard gate must swing only outward, have self closers, must close and latch when released from any distance from the closed position, and must have a minimum 54" high lockable gate latch.

The industry standard for pool yard gate latches is the Magna Latch.
http://ddtechglobal.com/product/magnalatch_top_pull_model_series_3

Lock your gates. Nobody needs to have access to your pool yard but you. If you have a landscaper or pool service company give them a key and instruct them to lock the gates every time they leave.

6) Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act (VGBA)

The VGBA was enacted to ensure that suction drains on swimming pools and spas do not entrap swimmers by hair, clothing or skin or eviscerate them by the suction of the pumps used in pools and spas.

This is a link to information regarding this act:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virginia_Graeme_Baker_Pool_and_Spa_Safety_Act
This link is by no means complete but gives a general overview of the act. Every pool/ spa should meet these requirements.

The VGBA requires you to change the main drain covers every 5 years. Since we do not know the age of these drain covers, we consider this pool red-flagged and shall not be used until VGBA approved drain covers are replaced. A qualified pool repair company can take care of this for you.

7) This pool has a Merlin safety cover.

We were not able to locate the serial number for the safety cover as it was packed away. The expiration date can be had by contacting the manufacturer with the serial number. Never use a safety cover past its expiration date. By ordering a replacement cover from the same manufacturer it should fit the original lag bolts if they have the original order.

Merlin: https://merlinindustries.com/products/safety-covers

Most manufacturers suggest the cover be stored in its air-permeable bag and hung off the ground in a dry place. By hanging the bag off the ground, you keep moisture, insects, and vermin away from it.

8) This pool is too shallow to support a diving board and one should never be installed.

9) Storage for pool chemicals was not observed. This section of the pool report is for FYI purposes.

Standard safety practices require:

• Chemicals should be out of the reach of children and pets
• The original lids on all chemical containers should be used, and lids should be closed lightly when not in use
• Different chemicals should not be stacked on top of one another
• Chemicals should be stored in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area preferably off the floor
• Chemicals should not be stored with other flammable items

For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?POOLCHEM

10) GFCI protection on this pool does not function properly. A qualified electrician should correct this for you.

GFCI devices should be tested on a regular basis.

This pool did not have the required GFCI located at the pool body. Code requires you to have a GFCI more than 10 feet but less than 20 feet from the pool body. At the time of the inspection we could not find one.

11) The plaster surface of the pool and/or spa body had significant wear marks in some areas. A qualified person should evaluate and repair as necessary. Concrete pools or spas should be re-plastered every 10 to 15 years. For more information, visit:
https://www.reporthost.com/?POOLPLASTER

12) DECKING, COPING, and HARDSCAPING

13) This pool has a swim out as the second means of egress.

14) An anti-siphon device is installed on this hose bib.

Water makeup on this pool is by a garden hose. Even with a proper antisiphon device never place the end of the hose in the pool water when refilling. A drop in city pressure can cause you to siphon pool water into the potable drinking supply.

15) POOL BODY

The pool body had vertical walls that are straight and true and slopes and floors that showed no heaving or sinking or cracks.

16) SUPPORT EQUIPMENT

There are four Pentair Whisperflo circulators on this pool. One is the main circulator, one is the spa booster and the other two are for the waterfalls.
https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/aquatics/residential-pool/owners-manuals/pumps/whisperflo/whisperflo-pump-manual-english-spanish.pdf

Circulated water is handled by a Sta-Rite System 3 cartridge filter.https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/product-related/product-manuals/pool-and-spa-equipment/filters/System-3_SM_Owners_Manual_English.pdf.

Water temperature is maintained by a Pentair MasterTemp gas-fired heater.
https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/pentair-heater-mastertemp.pdf

Sanitation is handled by a Jandy Aqua Pure Electronic Salt Water Chlorine Generator.
https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/jandy-sanitizers-aquapure.pdf

The automated pool controller is a Jandy AquaLink RS.
https://www.iaqualink.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/0748-91071/6594.pdf

The blowers for the spa feature is are Air Supply Silencers.
https://www.airsupplyflorida.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/installation-guide.pdf

The booster pump for the automated cleaner is a Polaris PB4-60. The cleaner was not found on the premises.
https://www.polarispool.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0399500.pdf

17) YOUR WATER ANALYSIS

Your pool water analysis. All values are in ppm except pH.
Chlorine. Should be 1-4ppm yours is .5
Total Alkalinity. Should be 80-120 yours is 80
pH. Should be 7.2-7.8 yours is 7.8
Calcium Hardness. Should be 150-400 yours is 100
Stabilizer (CYA) Should be 30+ yours is 40
Phosphates. Should be 0 yours is 500 (this number can be safely ignored unless recurring algae is a problem)

Some basic pool water chemistry.
https://www.swimuniversity.com/basic-pool-chemistry/

A good way to get started for a first-time pool owner is to go to a pool store/ service company and bring them water to be tested. They will set you up with the chemicals you need to get things in order. An adjustment upon opening the pool and then confirmation testing is all you usually need at the beginning of the season. Weekly testing of the chlorine and pH by you is needed. You can use simple test strips for that. Make small adjustments, be patient. First-timers have a habit of overdosing the pool.

A few tips:

Total calcium hardness is done with calcium chloride. Regardless of the fancy names used by the pool chemical companies, it's calcium chloride. The exact same white stuff you put on your driveway to melt ice and snow. (not rock salt) Buy that at the pool store and you will pay 10 times what it cost at a supermarket. Calcium hardness levels should be slightly higher in concrete pools, say 250-400.

If you are using chlorine tablets never add stabilizer. The tablets have stabilizer in them and you will soon be at or well above the required amount of 30+ ppm.

A lot of pool places don't test for phosphates. Higher phosphates mean you need more chlorine to keep algae under control. The best stuff I've ever used is "Chlorox Phosphate Remover" you can get it on Amazon for around $12 a bottle and it's just as effective as the stuff at pool stores for $30.