12) One or more waste line clean out caps had a bad seal. This is a safety hazard because sewer gases may vent into the structure. A qualified licensed handyman/plumber should repair or replace as necessary.

13) One or more outside faucets leak. For example, from the valve stem when turned on or from the spigot when turned off. A qualified licensed handyman/plumber should evaluate and repair as necessary.

14) Cracks, deterioration and/or damage were found in one or more areas of the stucco siding. A qualified licensed handyman or a contractor should evaluate and make repairs and/or replace stucco siding as necessary.

15) Fences and/or gates are damaged and/or deteriorated in some areas. A qualified licensed handyman or a contractor should evaluate and make repairs or replace sections as necessary.

16) One or more crawlspace vents are at/below grade with no well to prevent rainwater from entering. Recommend installing wells at below grade crawlspace vents.

17) Damage noted. Trim appears to be cracking/deteriorating. Recommend having a qualified licensed handyman/contractor replace and paint with a quality exterior paint.

18) What appears to be a small hole(s) in the exterior/interior wall needs to be repaired to prevent moisture, small rodents and insects from entering into structure. Recommend having a qualified licensed handyman evaluate and repair.

19) The main water shut-off valve was in contact with the soil below. Corrosion is more likely to occur as a result. Soil should be graded, or modifications made as necessary so the valve is not in contact with the soil below.

20) One or more outside faucets are missing a backflow device. These devices reduce the likelihood of polluted or contaminated water entering the potable water supply. This condition can occur when an outside faucet is left in the "on" position with a hose connected and the sprayer head turned off. When pressure in the system fluctuates, water can be drawn back into the water supply pipes from the house. If a chemical sprayer is being used with the hose, those chemicals can enter the water supply pipes.

Recommend installing backflow prevention devices on all exterior hose bibbs where missing. They are available at most home improvement stores and are easily installed.

For more information, visit:https://www.google.com/search?q=backflow+prevention+device&rlz

21) One or more soffit vent screens are missing and/or deteriorated. Birds and vermin may enter the attic because of this. Screens should be replaced or repaired where necessary, or installed where missing.

29) Based on the size of the rating of the main service panel, the size of the service conductor wires, and/or the rating of the main disconnect device, it appears that the main service panel is undersized. This is a potential fire hazard. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair if necessary.

30) One or more overcurrent protection devices (circuit breakers or fuses) are "double tapped", where 2 or more wires are clamped in a terminal designed for only one wire. This could be a safety hazard since the bolt or screw may tighten securely against one wire, but leave others loose. Arcing, sparks and fires may result. A qualified handyman/electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.

31) One or more conductors passed through a panel without terminating at an overcurrent protection device such as a circuit breaker or fuse. Standard building practices prohibit this practice. Recommend having a qualified electrician evaluate and determine if this installation is acceptable, and make repairs if necessary.

32) Branch circuit wiring installed in buildings built prior to the mid 1980s is typically rated for a maximum temperature of only 60 degrees Centigrade. This includes non-metallic sheathed (Romex) wiring, and both BX and AC metal clad flexible wiring. Knob and tube wiring, typically installed in homes built prior to 1950 may be rated for even lower maximum temperatures. Newer electric fixtures including lighting and fans typically require wiring rated for 90 degrees Centigrade. Connecting older, 60 degree-rated wiring to such newer fixtures is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of fire. Repairs for such conditions often involve replacing the last few feet of wiring to newer fixtures with new 90 degree-rated wire. This often requires installing a junction box to join the old and new wiring.

It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine if such incompatible components are installed, or to determine the extent to which they're installed. Based on the age of this building, the client should be aware that this safety hazard may be present in this building. Recommend consulting with the property owner to determine if and when newer fixtures were installed, and/or to have a qualified electrician evaluate and repair as per standard building practices.

33) The legend for overcurrent protection devices (breakers or fuses) in the main service panel is missing, unreadable or incomplete. Recommend installing, updating or correcting the legend as necessary so it's accurate. Evaluation by a qualified handyman/electrician may be necessary.

36) One or more downspout extensions are missing and/or ineffective. Recommend installing extensions such as splashblocks or a drain line where missing, or repairing where necessary so rain water is carried at least several feet away from the structure to soil that slopes down and away from the structure.

37) Roof repairs may be needed because some and/or many composition shingles had the following conditions: missing shingles and/or granules worn away. Leaks may occur as a result. A qualified licensed handyman/contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. There does not appear to be problem at the time of the inspection. Recommend monitoring and if needed have a qualified licensed handyman/contractor evaluate and repair.

38) Roof repairs were needed in some sections of the flat or low slope roof due to the following conditions: cracking. Leaks may occur as a result. A qualified licensed handyman/contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. There does not appear to be problem at the time of the inspection. Recommend monitoring and if needed have a qualified licensed handyman/contractor evaluate and repair.

39) Debris has accumulated in one or more gutters. This is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects since gutters may overflow and cause water to come in contact with the structure's exterior or make water accumulate around the foundation. Gutters should be cleaned now and as necessary in the future.

44) Cover plate(s) are missing from one or more electric boxes, such as for receptacles, switches and/or junction boxes. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire and shock. Cover plates should be installed where missing.

45) The garage vehicle door is damaged or deteriorated. A qualified licensed handyman/contractor should evaluate and repair or replace the door as necessary.

46) The weatherstrip around one or more exterior entry doors is missing and/or deteriorated. Weatherstrip should be installed where missing and/or replaced where deteriorated, and by a qualified licensed handyman/contractor if necessary.

47) One or more sink drains have an active leak. For example, at pipe fittings and/or junctions between pipe and sink. A qualified licensed handyman/plumber should evaluate and repair as necessary.

51) Combustible materials were too close to the flue pipe. This is a fire hazard. Combustible materials should be moved well away from the flue or repairs made by a qualified licensed handyman/contractor as necessary. Standard building practices typically require the following clearances:

• Minimum one inch from "B" vent for gas-fueled burner
• Minimum two inches from double wall pipe for oil or gas-fueled burner
• Minimum 18 inches from single wall pipe with no draft hood for oil or gas-fueled burner
• Minimum 9 inches from single wall pipe with a draft hood for oil-fueled burner
• Minimum 6 inches from single wall pipe with a draft hood for gas-fueled burner

52) No drain line was installed for the temperature-pressure relief valve. This is a potential safety hazard due to the risk of scalding if someone is standing next to the water heater when the valve opens. A qualified licensed handyman/plumber should install a drain line as per standard building practices. For example, extending to 6 inches from the floor, or routed so as to drain outside.

53) There appears to be dryer lint on and around the water heater. Lint is highly flammable. Recommend cleaning the lint from on and around the water heater to prevent a fire. The lint may have come from a faulty dryer vent hose. Recommend evaluating the hose to prevent lint from collecting again.

54) No water supply shut-off valve was visible for the water heater. A shut-off valve allows the supply to the water heater to be turned off when the water heater needs repair or replacement, while allowing the remainder of the plumbing system to be operable (toilets, sinks, etc.). Recommend having a qualified licensed handyman/plumbing contractor determine if a water supply shut-off valve exists, and install one if it is missing.

61) Because of the age and/or condition of this furnace, recommend that a qualified licensed handyman/heating and cooling technician inspect the heat exchanger and perform a Carbon Monoxide test when it's serviced.

62) Small amounts of debris, dirt and/or dust are visible in one or more sections of supply and/or return air ducts. This can be a health hazard, especially for those with allergies or respiratory problems. The Environmental Protection Association (EPA) recommends considering having ducts professionally cleaned when "ducts are clogged with excessive amounts of dust and debris and/or particles are actually released into the home from your supply registers". At a minimum, the visible debris should be thoroughly cleaned. Recommend having a qualified licensed handyman/contractor clean the ducts. For more information on duct cleaning in relation to indoor air quality, visit: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html

63) The last service date of this system appears to be more than one year ago, or the inspector was unable to determine the last service date. The client(s) should ask the property owner(s) when it was last serviced. If unable to determine the last service date, or if this system was serviced more than one year ago, a qualified licensed handyman/heating and cooling contractor should inspect, clean, and service this system, and make repairs if necessary. For safety reasons, and because this system is fueled by gas or oil, this servicing should be performed annually in the future. For more information visit: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml05/05017.html

64) Supply air from the air conditioning system was not cool enough. It should be 14 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit cooler than at the return duct(s), or current room temperature. This may be caused by refrigerant loss, dirty coils, a failing compressor, an oversized fan, or a deficient return air system. A qualified licensed handyman/heating and cooling contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. For more information on electrical savings: https://www.google.com/search?q=sce+shut+down+box&rlz

65) No filter is visible for the heating/cooling system. As a result, unfiltered air will flow through the system, and the heating/cooling equipment life and the indoor air quality may be reduced. Correctly sized filter(s) should be installed. If necessary, guides or retaining devices should be installed or repaired so filter(s) are securely anchored and gaps around edges are minimized.

66) The trap in the air handler's condensate drain line was missing. Standard building practices require a U-shaped trap to be installed to prevent cool air from escaping from the drain line. A qualified licensed handyman/contractor should evaluate and repair as necessary. For more information: http://cfacservice.com/residential-services/drain-lines/

71) Exposed wiring due to splices not being contained in one or more junction box(es). Recommend having a qualified handyman/electrician evaluate and install junction boxes with cover plates where needed to contain wiring splices.

72) Thermal insulation was in contact with "knob-and-tube" electrical wiring. Many municipalities prohibit this practice for the following reasons:

• Thermal insulation traps the heat created by current, and may cause the wiring insulation to degrade and fail.
• Knob and tube wiring is easily damaged. Because wiring is hidden by insulation, someone moving around in an attic may damage the wiring because they can't see it.

Some municipalities do allow thermal insulation to be installed in contact with knob and tube wiring. But in most cases where allowed, the wiring is required to be inspected by a state-licensed electrician prior to installing the insulation, with written documentation. Also, a notice may be required to be posted in the attic warning of hidden wiring.

Recommend consulting with the property owner(s) about the insulation being in contact with the wiring. If no records are available that verify an evaluation by a licensed electrician prior to the insulation's installation, insulation should be moved or removed as necessary, and a qualified licensed handyman/electrician should evaluate the wiring and make repairs if necessary. If the local municipality doesn't allow it, this insulation should be moved or removed as necessary by a qualified person.

73) One or more indoor attic access hatch covers or doors were missing, damaged and/or substandard. When located indoors, conditioned air can enter the attic. Energy efficiency can be reduced, moisture can form in the attic, attic air laden with insulation fibers can enter living spaces, and/or pets can enter the attic . This is also a fire hazard as attic access hatch covers and doors are meant to stop or slow the spread of fire into the attic. A qualified person should replace, install or repair hatches or doors as necessary and per standard building practices. Each access point should be insulated and sealed with weatherstripping. For more information, visit:
http://www.reporthost.com/?ATTACC

74) Knob and tube wiring posed a safety hazard for fire or shock in one or more areas due to the following conditions: substandard modifications. This is a potential safety hazard for fire and shock. A qualified electrician should evaluate and repair as necessary.

81) One or more open ground, three-pronged grounding type receptacles were found. This could be a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified licensed handyman/electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

Grounding type receptacles were first required in residential structures during the 1960s. Based on the age of this structure and/or the absence of 2-pronged receptacles, repairs should be made by correcting wiring circuits as necessary so all receptacles are grounded as per standard building practices. Replacement of three-pronged receptacles with 2-pronged receptacles is not an acceptable solution. For more information: http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/tree.htm

82) One or more electric receptacles have reverse-polarity wiring, where the hot and neutral wires are reversed. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified licensed handyman/electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary. For more information: https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Electrical_Outlet_Reversed_Polarity.php

83) One or more electric receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of a sink appear to have no ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified licensed handyman/electrician should evaluate to determine if GFCI protection exists, and if not, repairs should be made so that all receptacles that serve countertop surfaces within six feet of sinks have GFCI protection. For example, install GFCI receptacles or circuit breaker(s) as needed.

84) The range will be able to/can tip forward. No anti-tip bracket appears to be installed or it is not working properly. The range may tip forward when weight is applied to the open door, such as when a small child climbs on it, or if heavy objects are dropped on it. Anti-tip brackets have been sold with all free standing ranges since 1985. An anti-tip bracket should be installed to eliminate this safety hazard. For more information, visit https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1LOQA_enUS686US686&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=anti-tip%20bracket%20for%20stove

85) The dishwasher was malfunctioning and/or noisy or vibrated excessively. A qualified licensed handyman/person should evaluate and repair or replace as necessary.

86) The under-sink food disposal is noisy. A qualified licensed handyman/plumber or contractor should evaluate and repair or replace the food disposal as necessary.

87) No exhaust hood or fan was installed over the cook top. Ventilation and/or lighting may be inadequate and moisture may accumulate indoors. Recommend having a qualified licensed handyman/contractor install a vented and lighted range hood, with the exhaust fan configured so as to vent outdoors.

97) Cover plate(s) are missing from one or more electric boxes, such as for receptacles, switches and/or junction boxes. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire and shock. Cover plates should be installed where missing.

98) One or more bathrooms with a shower do not have an exhaust fan installed. Moisture accumulation will occur and may damage the structure. Even if the bathroom has a window that opens, it likely does not provide adequate ventilation, especially during cold weather when the window is closed. A qualified licensed handyman/contractor should install exhaust fans as per standard building practices where missing in bathrooms with showers.

99) One or more faucet handles are loose or missing and should be repaired or replaced as necessary.

100) Caulk is missing or deteriorated around the base of one or more bathtub spouts. It should be replaced where deteriorated and/or applied where missing to prevent water intrusion and damage to wall structures.

105) One or more open ground, three-pronged grounding type receptacles were found. This could be a safety hazard due to the risk of shock. A qualified licensed handyman/electrician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

Grounding type receptacles were first required in residential structures during the 1960s. Based on the age of this structure and/or the absence of 2-pronged receptacles, repairs should be made by correcting wiring circuits as necessary so all receptacles are grounded as per standard building practices. Replacement of three-pronged receptacles with 2-pronged receptacles is not an acceptable solution. For more information: http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/tree.htm

106) An insufficient number of smoke alarms are installed. Additional smoke alarms should be installed as necessary so a functioning one exists in each hallway leading to bedrooms, and in each bedroom. For more information, visit https://www.google.com/search?q=no+smoke+alarms&rlz

107) Relatively few electric receptacles are installed in one or more interior rooms. This can result in "octopus" wiring with extension cords, which is a fire hazard. A qualified licensed handyman/electrician should evaluate and install additional receptacles as necessary and as per standard building practices.

108) Cover plate(s) are missing from one or more electric boxes, such as for receptacles, switches and/or junction boxes. They are intended to contain fire and prevent electric shock from exposed wires. This is a safety hazard due to the risk of fire and shock. Cover plates should be installed where missing.

109) The sash spring mechanisms in some windows were broken or loose. A qualified licensed handyman/contractor or service technician should evaluate and make repairs as necessary so the window operate as intended (open easily, stay open without support, close easily, etc.). For more information, visit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TAjm4X8ubI

110) Screen(s) in one or more windows are missing. The client(s) should ask the property owner(s) about this. Screens are often removed for window cleaning and they may be stored somewhere. If not, then recommend installing screens where missing.

111) Floors in one or more areas are not level. Significant repairs may be needed to make floors level, such as repairs to the foundation. A qualified licensed handyman/contractor should evaluate and make repairs as necessary.

112) Wood flooring in one or more areas is worn, damaged and/or cupping. Recommend having a qualified licensed handyman/contractor evaluate and refinish wood flooring as necessary.

113) Squeaking or creaking noises occur when walking on one or more sections of flooring. This is usually caused by substandard construction practices where the subfloor decking is not adequately fastened to the framing below. For example, not enough glue was used and/or nails were used rather than screws. In most cases, this is only an annoyance rather than a structural problem. Various solutions such as Squeeeeek No More and Counter Snap fasteners exist to correct this. Repairs to eliminate the squeaks or creaks may be more or less difficult depending on the floor covering, and the access to the underside of the sub-floor. Recommend having a qualified licensed handyman/contractor evaluate and repair as necessary.

114) Glass in some windows was cracked or broken. A qualified licensed handyman/contractor should replace glass where necessary.

115) Screen(s) in one or more windows are torn or have holes in them. Screens should be replaced where necessary.

116) One or more doors dragged on the carpet below and were difficult to open and close. Recommend that a qualified person repair as necessary. For example, by trimming bottoms of doors.

117) The weatherstrip around one or more exterior entry doors is missing and/or deteriorated. Weatherstrip should be installed where missing and/or replaced where deteriorated, and by a qualified licensed handyman/contractor if necessary.

123) One or more pier or foundation footings are undermined, where soil has either eroded out from underneath, or has been excavated too close to the footing. Structural engineers typically require undisturbed soil to extend at least a foot horizontally out from the edge of footings, and then slope down no more steeply than 45 degrees. Otherwise soil may collapse from beneath the footing(s). A qualified structural engineer should evaluate and determine what repairs if any should be made. If repairs are prescribed, then a qualified contractor should perform them in accordance with the engineer's recommendations.

124) The crawl space access hatch was substandard and/or fit poorly. A qualified person should repair, replace or install as necessary to prevent water and vermin intrusion and the possibility of falling in.

125) Based on the appearance and/or reported age of the foundation (or sections of the foundation), it may not be reinforced. Foundations without modern reinforcement such as metal "rebar" are prone to failure during earthquakes. Typically, concrete foundations built prior to the 1930s, or brick foundations built with "header" courses, are not reinforced. Consult with a qualified engineer to determine if the foundation should be replaced or repaired.

126) A hydraulic jack and/or extra support posts appear to have been added since the original construction based on the inspector's observations. Such posts may have been added to reduce bounce or sag in floors above. Consult with the property owner about this, or that a qualified contractor evaluate and make permanent repairs per standard building practices if necessary.

127) There is an active leak in the crawlspace. Accumulated water is a conducive condition for wood destroying insects and organisms and should not be present in the crawl space. Recommend having a qualified handyman/plumber evaluate and repair.

128) One or more minor cracks (1/8 inch or less) were found in the foundation. These didn't appear to be a structural concern, but recommend sealing them to prevent water infiltration and monitor them in the future. Numerous products exist to seal such cracks including hydraulic cement, non-shrinking grout, resilient caulks and epoxy sealants.