Florida State Certified Home Inspector License # HI7862
Sample5
Client(s):
Randy Moore
Property address:
100 Florida Way New Port Richey, FL 34653
Inspection date:
Sunday, June 30, 2019
This report published on Wednesday, July 17, 2019 7:59:22 AM EDT
This report is the exclusive property of this inspection company and the client(s) listed in the report title. Use of this report by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.
How to Read this Report
This report is organized by the property's functional areas. Within each functional area, descriptive information is listed first and is shown in bold type. Items of concern follow descriptive information.
Concerns are shown and sorted according to these types:
Safety
Poses a risk of injury or death
Repair/Replace
Recommend repairing or replacing
Repair/Maintain
Recommend repair and/or maintenance
Minor Defect
Correction likely involves only a minor expense
Maintain
Recommend ongoing maintenance
Evaluate
Recommend evaluation by a specialist
Monitor
Recommend monitoring in the future
Comment
For your information
Click here for a glossary of building construction terms.Contact your inspector If there are terms that you do not understand, or visit the glossary of construction terms at https://www.reporthost.com/glossary.asp
Inspection Fee: $375 including Wind Mitigation and 4-Point insurance inspections
Payment method: Invoiced
Present during inspection: Realtor(s)
Occupied: Yes
Weather conditions: Clear
Temperature: Warm
Ground condition: Dry
Foundation type: Slab on grade
The following items are excluded from this inspection: Security system, Irrigation system
Age of building: 14 years, 2005 build
1) The home is a 2760 sq ft, 4/2.5/2 single family home, built in 2005 and located in a residential community of New Port Richey, FL. The property is in good condition for its age of 14 years.
All references to “left” and “right” are taken from the perspective of a person facing the front of the home.
Views of the home:
Photo 1-1 Front of home, 10240 Hilltop Drive, New Port Richey, FL 34654
Photo 1-2 Right side view
Photo 1-3 Back of home with pool enclosure
Photo 1-4 Left side view
Photo 1-5 Left side view
2) The home is a 2760 sq ft, 4/2.5/2/ single family home, built in 2005 and located in a residential community of New Port Richey, FL. The property is in good condition for its age of 14 years.
All references to “left” and “right” are taken from the perspective of a person facing the front of the home.
Views of the home:
Photo 2-1 Front of home, 10240 Hilltop Drive, New Port Richey, FL 34654
Apparent wall structure: Wood frame, Concrete block, Concrete block main floor, wood frame upper story
Wall covering: Stucco
Driveway material: Asphalt, Poured in place concrete
Sidewalk material: Poured in place concrete
Exterior door material: Solid core fiberglass, Sliding glass
3) The exterior of the home was inspected with the following items noted:
Photo 3-1 Address verification
Photo 3-2 Main entranceway view
Photo 3-3 The front double-doors are made of wood or fiberglass, not magnetic as the ruler will not stick to the door.
Photo 3-4 Garage service door, right side of home.
Photo 3-5 The service door is made of wood or fiberglass; the magnetic ruler will not stick to the door.
Photo 3-6 Back door to the pool deck is fiberglass constructed.
Photo 3-7 Utilities are underground to the home with service entry on the right side.
Photo 3-8 The MT-6 is picking up rebar inside the block wall verifying reinforced masonry construction.
Photo 3-9 The smaller is a Tempstar (built by International Comfort Products) 2.5ton unit.
Photo 3-10 The main system for the home, covering the ground floor is a 4-ton Airtemp unit (built by Nortec).
Photo 3-11 There are two HVAC systems in the home, one for each floor. Both performed as advertised during the inspection.
Photo 3-12 This is the well pump assembly in the right side yard. The assembly has the wellhead shaft with submersible pump, and the large accumulator tank as shown here.
Photo 3-13 Exterior outlets are GFCI-protected with reset in the garage.
Photo 3-14 Exterior outlet is GFCI-capable with reset in the garage.
Photo 3-15 The Guest bath window needs its screen reset in channel at the corner.
Photo 3-16 This drainage line exhausts into the right side yard, don't know what it's for.
Photo 3-17 Here is the top of the buried propane tank in the yard, and the disconnected gas line.
Roof covering: Asphalt or fiberglass composition shingles
Estimated age of roof: 14 years, original to the 2005-built home
Gutter & downspout material: Aluminum
Roof ventilation: Adequate, Perforated metal eaves to ridge vents on roof
4) The roof was traversed with normal aging noted affecting the shingles and vents. The roof is covered with dimensional shingles that are about 50% into projected service life of 30 years. At this point the roof cover is aging as expected, with approximately 15 years of service life remaining.
The roof geometry is hip, as it meets requirements for 90% of the perimeter to be hip geometry. For this roof, non-hip features (front gables) are 16 linear feet against an overall perimeter of 205'. Hip percentage is 92.2%, the roof overall meets hip classification on the Wind Mitigation form. Roof geometry of hip is the strongest discount on the WMI calculation.
The shingles are shedding their granules normally for a 14+ year roof, and granules are collecting in the gutters. Granule loss is not severe at this point. The roof should have 5-10 years of service life remaining with appropriate care.
Darkening of the shingles by algae (Gloeocapsa Magma) is evident. This is cosmetic only and has no adverse affect on the roofing materials.
The gutters should be cleaned to clear downspouts for proper drainage.
Views of the roof:
Photo 4-1 The roof was installed in 2005 as the original to the home, and at 14 years of age is about halfway into projected service life of 30 years.
Photo 4-2 The dimensional shingles remain well-adhered and will not lift under finger pressure.
Photo 4-3 Small gable facet over the left front corner at the garage entrance.
Photo 4-4 Roof over the lower tier, left side.
Photo 4-5 Left side roof appears in serviceable condition.
Photo 4-6 Front lower tier of roof
Photo 4-7 Front right side roof over the garage.
Photo 4-8 Upper tier has the same serviceable look from the dimensional shingles.
Photo 4-9 Back lower tier of roof.
Photo 4-10 Back slope over the left back corner, down to the pool enclosure.
Photo 4-11 Wood frame wall of second story with windows flush to the surface.
Photo 4-12 Pool view, from above
Photo 4-13 View to the nature preserve bordering the back lot line.
Insulation material: Fiberglass loose fill, Fiberglass roll or batt
Insulation depth: Estimated 12" average insulation depth
Insulation estimated R value: R-30, as shown on the Builders Statement in the MBR attic
5) The attic was partially traversed, to the limit of safe travel inside the space. The attic was accessed via the garage and Master Walk-in scuttles and is partially decked for storage over the garage. The space over the garage is uninsulated, fiberglass loose fill and fiberglass batt insulation is spread throughout the attic over the heated space to a depth of approximately 12".
HVAC ducting runs through the attic and appears to be in good condition. The system was observed in operation with no air leakage noted.
Rafters are attached with 8D nails every 6" and single-wrap hurricane straps are on each rafter end at the wall connection. Sheathing is 7/16" plywood; trusses are on 24" centers.
No defects were noted in the attic.
Photo 5-1 8D size rafter nails, per code (WMI credit).
Photo 5-2 Rafter nail spacing is within the 6" target (WMI credit). Photo
Photo 5-3 Plywood sheathing is 7/16" thick, per code (WMI credit).
Photo 5-4 Trusses are on 24" centers (WMI credit).
Photo 5-5 Frontside of single-wrap strap with correct nail pattern (WMI credit).
Photo 5-6 Trusses are secured to the wall tops via single-wrap straps (backside of strap shown) (WMI credit).
Photo 5-7 Plywood sheathing view, down to the truss ends.
Photo 5-8 The attic space over the garage is uninsulated.
Photo 5-9 Builders Statement in the attic states insulation laid to a value of R-30 (excellent).
Photo 5-10 Fiberglass batt insulation is laid over the raised ceiling vertical walls.
Photo 5-11 Insulation view; fiberglass loose fill is over the flat areas of the ceilings.
Photo 5-12 Insulation and flexible HVAC ducting in the attic.
Photo 5-13 Mix of loose fill and batt insulation in this shot.
Photo 5-14 Insulation view
Photo 5-15 Insulation and flexible HVAC ducting in the attic.
6) The garage is a two-car space equipped with an automatic vehicle door opener capable of auto-reversing if an obstruction is encountered during downward motion. The garage houses the MESP, water heater, irrigation control, attic stairway access and the HVAC system air handler, suspended over the garage deck.
The following checks were conducted in the garage (* indicates discrepancy noted): - GFCI trips and resets - Electric outlet security, wiring and polarity - Lighting - Garage-house door construction, closure device and operation* - Garage service door condition and operation* - Vehicle door condition, automatic operation and reversing - Vehicle door opening trim strips and bucking board - Ceiling leaks - Wall and deck cracks and general condition - Irrigation system*
The following discrepancies were noted in the garage: - No closure device on the garage-house door. Installation of a closure, such as sprung hinges is recommended to help maintain fire and fume block integrity of the garage-house wall. Building code now requires a closure device on the garage-house door for new construction (see note below). - Wood rot noted at the bottom of both sides of the service doorframe, and also on the lower door core. All rotted wood should be replaced with replacement wood, or excavated and filled with an exterior grade filler material - Several attempts to actuate the Rain Bird irrigation controller failed.
Note: In 2007 two instances of carbon monoxide (CO) contamination of interior air from a vehicle left running in the garage occurred in our area. In both cases the garage-house door was left open. One incident resulted in two fatalities and the other two near-fatalities. CO is a colorless, odorless and tasteless gas that incapacitates the victim without their knowledge. Installation of an automatic closure device on the garage-house door is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED.
Photo 6-1 The garage is a 2-car space that currently houses the MESP, water heater, irrigation controller and the 4-ton system HVAC air handler, suspended over the garage deck.
Photo 6-2 The garage vehicle door is a modern reinforced model.
Photo 6-3 The door has a Wind Code sticker, unfortunately the pressure test blocks are not filled out.
Photo 6-4 The Main Electrical Service Panel (MESP) is a 225-amp model that currently supports 24 circuits. The MESP was inspected with cover removed. Note the level of rust on this panel cover, especially the lower half. This is not normal, and the problem was further looked into after the cover was removed.
Photo 6-5 The water heater is a A.O. Smith 50-gallon electric unit; the water heater was inspected with upper and lower thermostat covers removed.
Photo 6-6 Working GFCI reset outlet in the garage.
Photo 6-7 The doorframe of the garage service door has small-scale wood rot due to weather exposure on each side of the door frame, and also on the lower door core.
Photo 6-8 Small rot area on lower doorframe (both sides) and the lower door core should be excavated and filled.
Photo 6-9 4-ton HVAC air handler suspended over the garage deck was inspected with cover removed.
Photo 6-10 Several attempts to operate the Rain Bird irrigation controller were unsuccessful, reason unknown.
Photo 6-11 Attempting to operate the irrigation system, but no luck. The system should be checked out by an irrigation company. Usually the Rain Bird systems work for me, but not this one.
Photo 6-12 The garage-house door is a solid core wood model with no closure device. This door should have a closure device installed to help maintain fire and fume (carbon monoxide) blocking integrity of the garage-house wall. Sprung hinges are an invisible method to achieve this, or another type of closure could be used. Two sprung hinges replacing existing hinges are all that should be needed. A recent code change now requires a closure on the garage-house door for new construction.
Primary service overload protection type: Circuit breakers
Service amperage (amps): 200, 225-amp service to this large panel
Service voltage (volts): 120/240
Location of main service switch: 225-amp main breaker at the bottom of the panel
Location of main disconnect: Breaker at bottom of main service panel
Service entrance conductor material: Aluminum
System ground: Copper
Main disconnect rating (amps): 200, 225 amp main breaker
Branch circuit wiring type: Copper
Solid strand aluminum branch circuit wiring present: No
Smoke detectors present: Yes
7) The electrical system was installed to 2005 code with GFCI protections for most water-prone areas (exterior, kitchen, garage and baths). Reset points for the GFCI's are available at outlets in the garage, kitchen and Half-bath. GFCI measures amperage constantly between the power and return wires and will trip if a 5 milliamp difference is noted between the two lines. This condition will occur when a person is being shocked with his body becoming a return path to ground, therefore, GFCI helps to prevent people from being shocked in a high-moisture environment.
Two AFCI circuits are in the MESP servicing the bedroom circuits. AFCI measures the waveform of the electrical signal when the circuit is energized, and will trip the AFCI breaker should a loose connection be sensed. Loose connections may be sensed when the connection sparks, which sends a waveform signal similar to an earthquake on a seismograph. If this is detected by the AFCI monitor the AFCI breaker will be tripped. AFCI breakers are designed to prevent fires caused by sparking generated by loose electrical connections. AFCI breakers have test pushbuttons; these were activated during the inspection with one good and one bad result. The top AFCI breaker did not respond to its test button and cannot be considered reliable for AFCI protection.
The Main Electrical Service Panel (MESP) is located in the garage and currently supports 24 circuits. Electric service is underground to the home with meter on the exterior right side. There is a single 225-amp shutoff circuit breaker in the MESP. Feeds to the MESP are 3 aluminum 600V-rated lines with dual power lines carrying 120V each to the main breaker; all-copper branch wiring is used with stranded and solid copper ground/neutral lines. Wiring in the MESP appeared to be undamaged with connections mechanically sound. All accessible wiring in the MESP was touch-tested to ensure mechanical security in the terminals.
All accessible outlets in the home were inspected for wiring and polarity and checked good. A number of outlets had broken or missing faceplates that need to be replaced.
NOTE: The metal casing in the MESP is unusually rusted, and the circuit breakers in the MESP were wet with droplets of water on an otherwise dry panel at the top and bottom of the case. Water on the circuit breakers, likely coming from inside the panel through condensation can be a dangerous situation for possible electrical shorting of one or multiple breakers. An electrician should be called to solve the condensation problem and certify that the panel is no longer generating condensation on electrically live wiring and active circuit breakers SAFETY ISSUE, PRIORITY REPAIR
Photo 7-1 The Main Electrical Service Panel (MESP) is a 225-amp model that currently supports 24 circuits. The MESP was inspected with cover removed. Note the level of rust on this panel cover, especially the lower half. This is not normal, and the problem was further looked into after the cover was removed.
Photo 7-2 MESP with cover removed. All wiring and connections appear undamaged and secure, however, there was a problem found with this panel that should be evaluated and repaired by a qualified electrician.
Photo 7-3 Right bank of all-copper branch wiring exits the terminals in good condition.
Photo 7-4 Left bank of all-copper branch wiring exits the terminals in good condition.
Photo 7-5 Neutral (white) and ground (bare copper) wiring connected to the same ground/neutral bus. According to U.S. Electrical code, the neutral wiring can only be connected to ground at the MESP.
Photo 7-6 Aluminum feed lines from the meter carry 120V each to the MESP spine, enabling 240V service where required.
Photo 7-7 Touch-testing the branch wiring to ensure terminal security. All connections passed this check.
Photo 7-8 This was the most serious find in the panel. The circuit breakers with metal handles were corroded with rust (NOT normal) due to the breakers being noticeably wet. The moisture appeared to be due to a possible temperature difference between the inside and outside the panel in high humidity conditions. This has obviously been going on for a long period of time as the breakers are rusted.
Photo 7-9 Droplets of water can be seen on the surface of the breakers on both sides of the handles. This situation cannot be tolerated for obvious reasons - one being the possibility of electrical shorting of the internal components of the breakers and possibly their connections to the MESP spine. If shorting should occur, fire is a possibility along with failure of the shorted component. SAFETY ISSUE
Photo 7-10 Readings with the laser thermometer were normal over the wet breakers.
Photo 7-11 Maximum breaker temperature was over the 2 AFCI circuit breakers, which tend to run hotter due to their constant activity to monitor the electrical sign wave of their circuits. This elevation of temperature is not due to the water issue.
Photo 7-12 One of two AFCI breakers did not test with its AFCI test button; this breaker operates as a regular breaker but cannot be guaranteed to function as designed for AFCI protection.
Photo 7-13 The electrical layout of the kitchen is per code with all outlets GFCI-capable; two reset outlets control the protection for all others in the kitchen.
Photo 7-14 One of two GFCI reset outlets in the kitchen. Since they are all black, the buttons can be hard to see.
Photo 7-15 Another GFCI-controlled kitchen outlet with reset at another one down the counter.
Photo 7-16 The hand signal says this is GFCI reset outlet #2 (fingers), and both work well (thumbs-up).
Photo 7-17 Both outlets in the Master bath work for power and GFCI trip with reset at the Half-bath.
Photo 7-18 Upstairs bath GFCI reset is at the downstairs half-bath.
Photo 7-19 Master GFCI reset outlet for all baths is in the Half-bath.
Photo 7-20 Some outlets need faceplates, or replacement of broken ones.
Water temperature (degrees Fahrenheit): 120°F for upper and lower sections
8) The water heater is an A.O. Smith 50-gallon electric unit built in April 2005. The water heater was inspected with upper and lower thermostat covers removed. Command temperature was noted at 120 deg F for both sections. All wiring and connections appear to be in good condition and no tank corrosion noted.
Hot water response was tested at each outlet (deep sink, kitchen and baths) with good results.
The water heater has a projected service life of approximately 20 years, however, a water heater can provide good service well beyond projection as long as the inner tank does not suffer corrosion attack. Heating elements and thermostats can be changed at approximate 5-year intervals to maintain efficiency, and the tank should be flushed annually to eliminate internal debris.
The hot and cold lines on top of the water heater are insulated to minimize heat loss from the tank at all times.
Photo 8-1 The water heater is a A.O. Smith 50-gallon electric unit; the water heater was inspected with upper and lower thermostat covers removed.
Photo 8-2 Water heater ID label shows 50-gallon capacity and build date of April 2005.
Photo 8-3 Water heater upper section with thermostat cover removed. All wiring and connections appear undamaged and secure; command temperature set to residential standard 120°F (circled).
Photo 8-4 Water heater lower section with cover removed.
Photo 8-5 The lower section command temperature was a bit high at 135°F, so I reset it down to 120°F.
9) The HVAC (heating, ventilation, air conditioning) system is powered by two heat pumps; a 2.5-ton Tempstar for the upper story and a 4-ton Airtemp with matching air handlers, located in the garage and attic. The air handlers are equipped with heating strips to augment the pump during heavy heat demand and during emergency heat operation. The air conditioning system was on during the inspection and performed acceptably. The thermostats were exercised in all positions with responses measured. First and second floor temperature drops in the air conditioning mode were recorded at 13 and 15 deg F respectively, both within the acceptable range of the 12-22 degree desired target for efficient heat pump operation. Heat responses for both the heat pumps alone (heat mode) were in the range of 100F+ and in emergency heat (air handler electrical heating strips) was noted to be in the range of 85F+ and rising when deactivated for both systems. These readings are normal for the mode selections set.
The first floor air handler (only accessible one) was inspected with cover removed to inspect the "A" coil, wiring and blower motor. The interior of the air handler appears in new condition reflecting the 1-year age of the 4-ton Airtemp system. The "A" coil is clean and blower is in nearly new condition. Cleaning the condensate line every few months with a chlorine solution (Clorox) is recommended to kill and flush out mold residue that builds in the line. Efforts should be made to keep the system clean by using high-quality disposable filters. Filters should be changed monthly during periods of heavy use. Recommend having the system serviced every 6 months to ensure peak performance is maintained.
Photo 9-1 The smaller is a Tempstar (built by International Comfort Products) 2.5ton unit.
Photo 9-2 The Tempstar 2.5-ton was built in May 2016, making the unit 3 years of age. It should have a fairly long service life ahead. M: N4H430GKG101 SN: E162114185
Photo 9-3 The main system for the home, covering the ground floor is a 4-ton Airtemp unit (built by Nortec).
Photo 9-4 Airtemp ID label shows build date of April 2018, making this a nearly-new unit.
Photo 9-5 4-ton HVAC air handler suspended over the garage deck was inspected with cover removed.
Photo 9-6 Air handler ID label shows build date of April 2018.
Photo 9-7 New air handler for the 4-ton system with cover removed.
Photo 9-8 Wiring and connections in the electrical load center of the air handler appear in new condition.
Photo 9-9 Bright and shiny blower motor impeller looks much like it did in the showroom.
Photo 9-10 Upper surface of "A" coil appears bright and new.
Photo 9-11 Lower surface of "A coil looks good.
Photo 9-12 This is the float safety switch that will shut the system down if the primary condensate drain becomes clogged and backs up, spilling water in the pan.
Photo 9-13 If the float switch should fail, the pan will drain via this open port
Photo 9-14 The 2nd story thermostat is the more conventional Honeywell electronic model.
Photo 9-15 HVAC return temperature is the baseline used for efficiency checks. We start at 68°F for the 4-ton system.
Photo 9-16 The 4-ton system produced only a modest 13°F drop, but the house was cool and comfortable.
Photo 9-17 4-ton E-heat took its time to actuate (about 15 minutes), but finally did. This is typical of the E-heat feature in many heat pump systems. E-heat is from the heat box in the air handler only without the heat pump running. It is used to help the heat pump on start-up, and on very cold nights where the heat pump is losing ground to the cold in trying to maintain the command temperature set on the thermostat.
Photo 9-18 4-ton downstairs normal heat got cooking quickly.
Photo 9-19 HVAC return temperature upstairs is 70.6F.
Photo 9-20 At 55° we have a 15°F across the 2.5-ton system.
Photo 9-21 Upstairs E-heat was a bit faster at 10 minutes.
Photo 9-22 Normal heat using the heat pump typically produces a strong and rapid response, which the 2.5-ton upstairs system did here.
Photo 9-23 The floor-level thermostat is a modern, compact Honeywell model that worked well in all features.
10) Plumbing and Laundry The Plumbing and Laundry system was inspected under flow at all sites where plumbing was visible for inspection. All plumbing in the laundry room, kitchen and baths showed no leakage. All supply plumbing appeared in good condition with hardware firmly anchored. There is a disposal plumbed into the kitchen undersink drain line that was stuck initially, but responded to the Allen wrench to free the disposal spindle allowing the unit to then work normally.
The right side sink basin, which is on the disposal side, is slow to drain. The blockage is likely due to partial clogging of the interior of the disposal; the sink may respond to a treatment of Drain-O or similar product.
The water service is pressure-demand via an in-ground well with submersible pump at the bottom of the well shaft. The pump kicks on automatically when certain water pressure points are reached. Water service pressure to the home was measured at 24 PSI nominal with pump ON/OFF pressure points of 20 and 40 PSI, respectively. A large filtering system is provided on the right side of the home t condition the well water prior to entry into the home for use.
The washer and dryer were exercised and both performed as advertised. The dryer was noted to by noisy with a loudly squeaking belt, but otherwise did its job.
Well and Septic The well equipment is a pressure-demand type, that automatically senses when water is in use and turns the pump on to sustain steady flow. The pump drives to a kick-out pressure of 40 PSI, shuts off, and will turn on again at the low pressure switch setting of 20 PSI, and continues cycling between these two pressure points as long as demand is sensed. An accumulator tank dampens the pressure surges providing a constant pressure head to the home, a nominal 24 PSI for this home.
The well equipment was inspected with pump, accumulator tank, pressure gauge and shutoff valve making up the assembly. The pump is a submersible unit that operates far below the surface in or near the source water table. The new homeowner may want to inquire about the depth of the well for reference. Well depth for drinking water is determined largely by its location; specifically the depth of the aquifer under the home, which can vary from as little as 50' to as much as 300'+ in Florida. The well water seemed to be free of sulfur fumes inside the home and taste-tested favorably.
The home has a private sewage disposal system via a septic tank on the property. Since the home has been in use for 14 years, recommend the new homeowner have the septic tank pumped out (if not recently done) to start with a new slate. Solids gradually build up in the tank and must be pumped out on occasion, usually after several years. The performance of the septic tank should be monitored to ensure the drain field is working properly evacuating processed water out into the field, and not causing any backup problems. Inspection results of toilet flush and drainage were good, indicating no backup from the septic tank and likely a clear drain field.
While the septic tank is opened during pump-out the opportunity exists for a camera inspection of the interior tank walls. This should be requested of the septic service company that pumps out the tank.
Photo 10-1 This is the well pump assembly in the right side yard. The assembly has the wellhead shaft with submersible pump, and the large accumulator tank as shown here.
Photo 10-2 Nominal (standing) pressure in the well line was noted at 24 PSI, with pump ON/OFF hit points of 20 PSI and 40 PSI, respectively.
Photo 10-3 Well casing descends into the ground; the pump is in the shaft far below the surface. Depth of the well may be available but was not known at time of this writing.
Photo 10-4 Pump ON at 20 PSI
Photo 10-5 Pump OFF at 40 PSI
Photo 10-6 The ground water is treated via these resin tanks prior to entering the home.
Photo 10-7 The water system for the home is well and septic; this large tank is the accumulator that maintains a steady head of pressure to the home during pump cycling.
Photo 10-8 The salt in the water softener is well serviced.
Photo 10-9 Laundry room view. The machines were exercised through a cycle and worked as advertised.
Photo 10-10 Deep sink during flow check.
Photo 10-11 Deep undersink showed no leaks.
Photo 10-12 The cabinet for the deep sink needs to be reset due to a loose hinge.
Photo 10-13 The dryer has a loud, squeaking belt but turns the drum.
Photo 10-14 Window in the laundry room is single-glazed.
Photo 10-15 Kitchen sink sprayer is integral to the faucet and worked as advertised.
Photo 10-16 Kitchen undersink showed no leaks. On first actuation attempt the disposal hummed but did not run - the spindle was stuck hard.
Photo 10-17 After wrestling with the Allen wrench to free the spindle, it finally broke loose.
Photo 10-18 After freeing up with the wrench, the disposal ran fine.
Photo 10-19 The right side sink basin, where the disposal is mounted, was slow to drain even after the disposal was enabled. It may respond to a good dose of Drain-O.
Photo 10-20 Half-bath sink during flow check.
Photo 10-21 The pedestal sink in the Half-bath drain plumbing showed no leaks.
Photo 10-22 Dual Master vanities during Functional Flow checks (sinks, tub and shower running, toilet tank filling). All pressure checks were good.
Photo 10-23 Right side Master undersink showed no leaks.
Photo 10-24 Left side Master undersink showed no leaks.
Photo 10-25 Upstairs bath view
Photo 10-26 Upstairs bath undersink showed no leaks.
11) The following checks were conducted in the kitchen (* indicates discrepancy noted or comments): - Sink hot / cold operation* - Sink sprayer check - Undersink plumbing leak check - Functional flow check - Disposal operation - Dishwasher condition and operation - Refrigerator condition and operation - Range and oven condition and operation - Range hood fan and light - Microwave operation - Counter, drawer and cabinet condition and operation* - Lights and window operation - Walls, ceilings, floor condition - Electric receptacle security, wiring and polarity - GFCI trips and resets
The following discrepancies were noted in the kitchen: - Right side sink basin is slow to drain, recommend a treatment using a drain cleaner (Drain-O or similar product) - Several cabinet doors need adjustment or attachment of their Blum hinges
Photo 11-1 Kitchen view
Photo 11-2 Kitchen with sink counter and refrigerator.
Photo 11-3 Kitchen sink during flow check
Photo 11-4 Kitchen sink sprayer is integral to the faucet and worked as advertised.
Photo 11-5 Kitchen undersink showed no leaks. On first actuation attempt the disposal hummed but did not run - the spindle was stuck hard.
Photo 11-6 After wrestling with the Allen wrench to free the spindle, it finally broke loose.
Photo 11-7 After freeing up with the wrench, the disposal ran fine.
Photo 11-8 The right side sink basin, where the disposal is mounted, was slow to drain even after the disposal was enabled. It may respond to a good dose of Drain-O.
Photo 11-9 The electrical layout of the kitchen is per code with all outlets GFCI-capable; two reset outlets control the protection for all others in the kitchen.
Photo 11-10 One of two GFCI reset outlets in the kitchen. Since they are all black, the buttons can be hard to see.
Photo 11-11 Range with all 4 burners ON.
Photo 11-12 The oven section has upper and lower ovens with nice blue interiors. Both were tested in the Bake and Broil cycles and worked as advertised.
Photo 11-13 Another GFCI-controlled kitchen outlet with reset at another one down the counter.
Photo 11-14 There is a nice work surface in the kitchen with the island.
Photo 11-15 The hand signal says this is GFCI reset outlet #2 (fingers), and both work well (thumbs-up).
Photo 11-16 The left side island cabinet door needs connection of the Blum hinge.
12) There are 2.5 baths in the home; the Half-bath, Upstairs bath and Master Bath. All were inspected for general condition, plumbing and electrical operation. All are GFCI-capable with reset at the Half-bath outlet. The following checks were conducted in each bath (* indicates discrepancy noted or comments): - Functional flow - Sink and tub/shower hot/cold operation and leak check - Sink and tub/shower heads and drains* - Sink and tub/shower caulking - Shower doors condition and operation - Undersink plumbing leak check - Lights operation - Fan operation - Drawers and cabinets open/close operation and hardware - Entrance door and window operation - Walls, floors, ceilings and tilework - Toilet mounting, flush and recovery - Towel bars, TP holder, mounted accessories - Electric receptacle condition, wiring and polarity - GFCI trips and resets
The following discrepancies were noted in the baths: - Sink drain stoppers are missing in the Master and Upstairs bath
Photo 12-1 There is a Half-bath just outside the kitchen. The Half-bath outlet is the GFCI reset point for all baths' GFCI trips.
Photo 12-2 Half-bath sink during flow check.
Photo 12-3 The pedestal sink in the Half-bath drain plumbing showed no leaks.
Photo 12-4 Need to secure the toilet seat in the Half-bath.
Photo 12-5 Master GFCI reset outlet for all baths is in the Half-bath.
Photo 12-6 Master bath features a dual vanity and garden tub. It also has a large, clear window so you may want to draw the blinds. There is a large plant blocking the window and the home is on a relatively private lot, so maybe not much of an issue.
Photo 12-7 Dual Master vanities during Functional Flow checks (sinks, tub and shower running, toilet tank filling). All pressure checks were good.
Photo 12-8 The right side sink in the Master bath needs a stopper.
Photo 12-9 Right side Master undersink showed no leaks.
Photo 12-10 Left side Master undersink showed no leaks.
Photo 12-11 Garden tub during FF check.
Photo 12-12 Shower worked as advertised.
Photo 12-13 The toilet area in the Master bath has a lot of light via a large frosted window.
Photo 12-14 Both outlets in the Master bath work for power and GFCI trip with reset at the Half-bath.
Photo 12-15 Master right side undersink cabinet door needs connection of the Blum hinge.
Photo 12-16 Upstairs bath view
Photo 12-17 The upstairs bath sink needs a sink stopper.
Photo 12-18 Upstairs bath undersink showed no leaks.
Photo 12-19 Upstairs bath shower in action.
Photo 12-20 Upstairs bath GFCI reset is at the downstairs half-bath.
13) The following checks were conducted in each interior room (* indicates discrepancy noted or comments): - Lights operation - Ceiling fan operation (where installed) - Entrance doors, closet doors and windows* - Walls, stairs, carpet and floors* - Ceiling leaks - Electric receptacle security, wiring and polarity*
The following discrepancies were noted in the interior rooms: - The stairs handrail along the wall is loose and should be tightened - Window screens missing from 2 upstairs bedroom windows - Bedroom 2 bi-fold right side closet door dismounted (and fell on my head) - Pop-up roller in the right side MBR walk-in closet door is broken and should be replaced - A number of outlet faceplates need replacement or securing via a screw
Photo 13-1 Breakfast Nook outside the kitchen has a bay window view of the pool deck.
Photo 13-2 Living room, to the foyer and Master Bedroom (MBR).
Photo 13-3 Parlor inside the front wall of the home.
Photo 13-4 Parlor view, from the foyer
Photo 13-5 Foyer to the front door.
Photo 13-6 Living room to the shared wall near the Breakfast Nook
Photo 13-7 Living room left side wall, shared with the MBR.
Photo 13-8 All outlets in the home should be covered by faceplates where missing.
Photo 13-9 MBR view
Photo 13-10 MBR view, to the entrance door and Master bath.
Photo 13-11 The lobby is a good place to catch a TV show above the bustle down below.
Photo 13-12 Lobby area view, upstairs.
Photo 13-13 Den/Office view, to the entrance door.
Photo 13-14 One of the small upstairs bedrooms is currently configured as a Den/Office.
Photo 13-15 Bedroom 2 view, upstairs
Photo 13-16 Bedroom 2, to the entrance door. The right side cabinet bi-fold door in the background is a booby-trap for unsuspecting inspectors.
Photo 13-17 The right side cabinet door was not set, and fell on my head when I tried to open it.
Photo 13-18 Upstairs bedroom windows for two bedrooms are missing screens, which should be replaced.
Photo 13-19 Bedroom 3 upstairs
Photo 13-20 Same problem with the missing window screens. These may be available somewhere else in the home, possibly the seller knows where they are.
Photo 13-21 Bedroom 3, to the entrance door.
Photo 13-22 The handrail of the stairwell is loose and needs tightening.
Photo 13-23 Left side MBR closet attic access was used to view the insulation.
Photo 13-24 Right side MBR closet.
Photo 13-25 The bi-fold closet doors at the MBR have a pop-up roller with broken spring = no pop-up into the track.
14) The home features a medium-sized pool (12000-15000 gallons) powered from dual Century pumps, one for the pool and the second for the spa. An aerator valve is also provided to vary the amount of boil in the spa. Filtering equipment for the pool is conventional with large paper element Pentair filter being the main. A chlorine generator is provided with the pool system that converts salt in the pool (added by the owner) to chlorine and sodium for a time. The two components of salt will eventually rejoin and again form salt, and the cycle repeats. A basket filter at the pump inlet is also provided. Dump capability is provided via the valves.
The spa has a separate pump and impeller to support spa operation independently of the pool equipment. The spa was observed in operation with pump and aerator performing well. The spa was full to the brim and overflowing to the back fence and off the deck into the yard. With people inside the spa this overflow will likely be more pronounced.
The pool deck has suffered much cracking and some heaving of tiles. The pool shell appears to have sunken slightly causing a separation of the surrounding tiled deck. The back of the pool enclosure sits on elevated ground that is above the surrounding back yard. Fill dirt was used for construction and although compacted prior to pool installation, the fill may have allowed slight movement of the pool shell and deck as the pool was filled with water, becoming extremely heavy. Recommend a pool construction expert evaluate the pool deck to determine if repairs should be made.
The pool and spa were originally heated by a gas-fired pool heater that has deteriorated into an unusable state due to extensive rust and decay of control knobs and metals. This heater should NOT be used. If pool/spa heat is desired, a new system can be purchased to use electric, gas or solar power for the heat source.
The water in the pool is currently clear and attractive. The pool shell appears to be a Gunite base with DiamondBrite (or similar) finish, which appears to be in good condition. At present the pool is in functionally good condition with overall appearance also good. All tested equipment performed well (pool/spa heat excluded).
Installation of a baby fence to block small children from entering the pool is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED. This is one of the most important purchases that can be made for pool safety whether the homeowners have small children or not, and nearly everyone has pets that also need this protection. Particular good news was that the pool is equipped (or was at one time) with a baby fence to prevent small children and pets from entering the pool unsupervised. These safety fences can be set up and taken down quickly as the poles plug into the deck in drilled holes that are spaced to form a tight-fitting barrier when all sections are latched together. These fences may be the most important equipment provided for any pool.
Photo 14-1 The pool equipment is separate for the pool and spa, with each having its own pump and filtering media. The pool has an electrolysis chlorine generating system that converts salt into chlorine temporarily to sanitize the pool.
Photo 14-2 The main pool pump is a 1.65HP Century model.
Photo 14-3 The pool filter is a large Pentair cartridge filter.
Photo 14-4 Pool timer mounted to the wall behind the systems.
Photo 14-5 The chlorine generator for the pool is a Pentair Intellichlor IC20. This unit uses salt in the pool added to the pool water by the owner) water as a chlorine source. The water is sent through the cell which electrolyzes it, breaking it down into its components of sodium and hypochlorite (chlorine). When sent back into the pool the chlorine purifies the pool water before rejoining the sodium to form salt again, and the process repeats. Salt water pools are convenient in that the need to continually add chlorine is eliminated or greatly reduced. Shocking the pool periodically using liquid chlorine, especially in hot weather will still be necessary. A pool company should be consulted to check out the system initially and provide training on scheduled maintenance.
Photo 14-6 The metal in gas-fired pool heaters take a lot of thermal stress and can be vulnerable to shorter lifespans, as we see here.
Photo 14-7 This is the gas-fired pool/spa heater, or at least it once was. The system did not have a gas source as the line at the top of the buried propane tank was disconnected on inspection day. But this guy has seen his last rodeo. Being a gas appliance the integrity of all components is essential for safe operation. This unit is heavily corroded to the point where safe operation cannot be verified, and should be replaced.
Photo 14-8 This is the bottom of the same pool/spa heater. Don't take the chance on wringing more life from this heater, there will be much more peace of mind in the purchase of a new unit, which could be gas, solar or electric.
Photo 14-9 I turned the knob while attempting to operate (before finding the gas line disconnected out in the yard) and it was so old and crystallized that it started disintegrating.
Photo 14-10 The spa pump is a A.O. Smith (made by Century) 1HP unit that performed as advertised during the inspection.
Photo 14-11 This odd patch of white appears to be salt that was dumped into the pool to as a chlorine source for the chlorine generator. I found a broom and brushed the spot, and it stirred up like resting salt would. More even distribution of the salt into the pool would be a good idea.
Photo 14-12 Spa pump and impeller assembly.
Photo 14-13 The pool is an in-ground kidney shaped model with gunite base and DiamondBrite (or similar marbleized) finish. The pool appears to be in good condition and presented well on inspection day.
Photo 14-14 While the pool looked good, the pool deck showed some troubling structural problems. The pool has been installed into a fill dirt berm as can be seen by the enclosure area being a bit more elevated than the surrounding yard. It's likely that the pool deck settled a bit more than normal because of the fill it's mounted on being less compacted than the natural ground around the home. When the pool was filled with water it appears that the pool shell sank a bit causing separation with the surrounding deck and obvious cracking and heaving in some areas. Recommend a company be hired to evaluate the pool and deck for re-leveling/repair of the cracking, if necessary. Nearly all pool decks crack to some extent; this deck shows cracking well beyond the norm.
Photo 14-15 Pool view, from the left end.
Photo 14-16 The handrail mounts have caused the deck to both crack and heave upward between the posts.
Photo 14-17 The spa blower and pump together have provided the tub with a heavy blasting of jetted water.
Photo 14-18 The spa when running was noted to be spilling over the back of the pool deck into the yard. Hard to see here, but there is a small waterfall of water over the edge.
Photo 14-19 This was a nice find that too few pool owners have - a baby fence. The holes in the deck are for the installation of a custom baby fence, the location of the baby fence should be identified prior to taking ownership.
15) The inspector was alert for the presence of wood destroying insects and/or organisms throughout the inspection. Ants and flying insect nesting activity were noted on the exterior, but no wood-destroying insect activity was noted.
Recommend the home be initially treated by a pest control company to establish a baseline for treatment.
Disclaimer: Pristine Inspectors are formally trained in the recognition and identification of wood destroying insects and organisms. However, Pristine Home Inspections is not a licensed pest control operator in the state of Florida. By State of Florida law, termite inspections, the application of pesticide and the filing of form DACS 13645 shall only be done by licensed pest control companies.
16) The following is a list of recommended actions in priority order: - Have an electrician evaluate and repair the condensation problem in the MESP. Water droplets were found over virtually all circuit breakers in the panel which creates an obvious danger of shorting and possibly electrical fires. The extensive rust on the handles of the breakers and on the MESP case is evidence that the problem has been going on for a long time. - Locate the pool baby fence and install it to ensure that all sections are there. If the fence cannot be located, have a company custom-make one using the holes in the pool deck as a guide for design - Have the pool deck evaluated for extensive cracking and heaving. The pool and deck need to be monitored over time after the evaluation to ensure no soil instability exists under the pool shell and deck. - Discard the present pool/spa heater and replace with a new one if desired. - Unless recently done, have the septic tank pumped to start with a clean slate - Repair the dryer (or replace it) to eliminate the constant annoying squeal when the drum rotates - Install a closure device on the garage-house door. 2 sprung hinges replacing existing hinges is recommended - Repair cabinet doors in kitchen and baths where Blum hinges have become too loose or disconnected - Mount or repair the bi-fold closet door in Bedroom 2 and the bi-fold MBR Walk-in closet - Replace window screens in Bedrooms 2 and 3 upstairs - Install bath drain stoppers where missing - Clear the slow-draining kitchen sink right side basin - Tighten the stair handrail mounted to the wall
We at Pristine Home Inspections thank you for the opportunity to inspect your property, and wish you the very best in the future!